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    Electric system problems

    I have a 1986 GS450L, beautiful bike 6 speed fast and flawless, but it sat outside my garage for a whole winter and now its giving me problems all the time. The bike starts fine and runs, but after five minutes it just dies.I have to let it cool down for it to start again. I've changed the CDI unit, and the rectifier with original suzuki parts (very expensive)checked the gas line and it's fine too and the problem persists. What could be the problem? all sugestions, comments or advise are welcome.

    #2
    More data please: Does it die if idling for 5 minutes or does it die on the road after 5 minutes?

    When you try to restart after it dies and before it cools off, are the plugs wet? Is there spark then?

    How long do you have to let it cool down before it restarts?

    When (and if) it's running on the road, does it feel like it has as much power as before (until it dies)?

    Did the bike run fine before it was left outside?

    Thanx

    Comment


      #3
      It dies on the road after five minutes.
      I have to let it cool down for 6-10 minutes, if I try to restart before, the starter turns but the bike does not run.
      On the road it runs fine but then it starts losing power and finally it shuts off like if it had no gas, but it has gas.
      the bike run good before I left it outside for the winter last year. I was not able to ride it this summer.
      I will check to see if the spark plugs are wet, I haven;t done that, and I will also check for spark again when it's hot.
      Any other sugestions are welcome, thaks for replying. By the way I've read all the stator papers.

      Comment


        #4
        make sure the vent in the gas cap is not clogged up!
        if the vent is clogged, it will develop a vacuum in the tank and the engine will lean out, and eventually die from fuel starvation.
        ride the bike till it dies, then when it dies, immediately remove the gas cap. if you hear air suddenly being sucked into the tank you have found your problem.
        it can take a few minutes for the vacuum to build up to a level that causes fuel starvation.

        also if that checks out, try running the bike with the petcock set to reserve, and see if that makes a difference.

        Comment


          #5
          I just had a similar problem with my 850. It turned out that the coils quit firing after they got a little warm. Hook a timing light or suitable device to plug wires and with a fan blowing on the bike engine it can idle without doing damage. Watch and see if they quit firing before bike dies. My # 2+3 coil dropped out first leaving the bike running on 1+4 for a short while then they too dropped out. They were very expensive accell coils and were near new. Replaced them with 22 year old coils from another 850 and problem is solved.

          Comment


            #6
            At what speeds does this happen...

            As noted in another thread, my 450T does this (only) at freeway speed, but only with the choke off. If I add choke, I get it back (although it idles at 4k in neutral when set like this), which makes me suspect it's running rich (due to an air filter or carb issue).

            Try fiddling with the choke when it starts to sputter on you...

            Comment


              #7
              Dave_A, having to add choke to keep it running means it is running too lean; the choke is richening the gas mixture enough to keep the engine running. Look for a vacuum leak. How long can or do you ride with the choke partially applied?

              Comment


                #8
                Thank you guys for the advised. I finally got it runnig fine. The problem was the battery groung wire, it was corroded at the end where it bolts on to the engine, got that fixed. Also the fuse was getting really hot and instead of jus burning out it was cutting out the electricity flow and that was causing the bike to shut down. I took the fuse out and right now I have it running direct with out a fuse.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Danny Brown
                  I took the fuse out and right now I have it running direct with out a fuse.
                  Clean any connections at your fuse block. Clean the terminals where your fuse clips in. Put in a new fuse.

                  DON'T OPERATE WITHOUT A FUSE, EVEN FOR DIAGNOSTIC PURPOSES! If your bike was a house it'd burn down, but it would probably be easier to rebuild your house than to replace a burned up wiring harness/electrics.

                  I offer this advice not knowing if this is already obvious to you. Please do not take offence.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Al Munro
                    Originally posted by Danny Brown
                    I took the fuse out and right now I have it running direct with out a fuse.
                    Clean any connections at your fuse block. Clean the terminals where your fuse clips in. Put in a new fuse.

                    DON'T OPERATE WITHOUT A FUSE, EVEN FOR DIAGNOSTIC PURPOSES! If your bike was a house it'd burn down, but it would probably be easier to rebuild your house than to replace a burned up wiring harness/electrics.

                    I offer this advice not knowing if this is already obvious to you. Please do not take offence.

                    Listen to him. He's right.
                    Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Don't Operate Without A Fuse, Even For Diagnostic Purposes!

                      I replaced the bad fuse already. I only had it without a fuse the day I found out what was wrong with it. I'm taking your advise guys, thanks.

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