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Advice on Rear Shock Adjustments

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    #1

    Advice on Rear Shock Adjustments

    Hi - finally got my "new" 82 GS400T on the road last night for the first time. (I'm hooked) Only real complaint was that the back end was pretty soft - I was bouncing around a lot on bumpy roads.

    I'm 6'1" - 205 lbs and I see that at the bottom of the shocks there's an adjustment I could stick something in a step up. It's on the lowest setting. Any thoughts on where would be more suitable for me?
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    #2
    ?

    Crank it a notch and see how it rides.

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      #3
      Given the bike and your weight I would stiffen it up all the way and then see if you want to go down.

      I'm 180lbs on a 750 and have it all the way stiff. Works for me.

      The difference between one setting and another is not that much IMHO.

      Comment

        #4
        These old stock shocks are junk. Look into some aftermarket progressive shocks or something of the like. I personally use progressive 12 series shocks with dual heavy duty springs. I'm 6'6" and weigh 300# and even with my wife on the back they support us well with a good ride.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          Ok - so HOW to I crank them?

          Great advice - I'll try cranking them up and see if that gets too hard. Might look at some aftermarket ones down the road a little. I don't want to sink too much into this bike as I expect I'll want a 750/850/or 1000 before long.

          Any suggestions on HOW I should crank them?

          Comment

            #6
            On the bottom of the shock in the area of the bolt you'll see different level "notches" There is a tool for dampening adjustment but large pliers worked for me. Right above the notches will rotate and either compress the spring or uncompress, depends on which way you turn it. Use a towel or something so you don't scratch the chrome.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by chef1366
              These old stock shocks are junk. Look into some aftermarket progressive shocks or something of the like. I personally use progressive 12 series shocks with dual heavy duty springs. I'm 6'6" and weigh 300# and even with my wife on the back they support us well with a good ride.
              If I buy new Progressive shocks, I will spend more than I paid for the bike. There is something basically wrong with that. Why do motorcycle shocks cost 10 time what automotive shocks cost?

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by mixongw
                Why do motorcycle shocks cost 10 time what automotive shocks cost?
                No idea, but I suspect if you fit auto shocks you'll find out

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