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    My Ride Is Running Like Crap!

    So you buy an old bike, you expect problems. I'm not complaining, but it has gotten far worse. Since my last ride, it sat for maybe two weeks. I rode about 45 miles yesterday and it ran very poorly, popping nearly the whole time decelerating, coughing while accelerating. Time before that it was pretty much just an idle issue which improved (never 100%) after thoroughly warming up. I've put <300 miles total on it since registration.

    Two of the four cylinders are running hot (beginning to purple the pipe). I'm just not sure what changed between now and then.

    Unless there is something simple to mess around with, I won't be riding it anymore. To the repair shop will be it's next trip as I feel like by running it, I'm doing more harm than good. This is one of the reasons I've not put tires on yet. It has got to run properly first. I finally get it home and I still can't ride 8-[!

    Ah, I feel better!;-)

    #2
    You've either developed a vacuum leak or you carbs need cleaned. Check your screen on the petcock and get rid of any inline filters. Check for vacuum leaks at the intake with WD40 and see if the idle dives.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Thanks brother `80 1100L owner . I will try that. Lose the inline filter eh? This causes a restriction or something? I installed it as a precaution. The tank is OK, not great. is the filter screen inside the tank enough to do the job?

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        #4
        And here I thought I was the only '80 1100L owner on the site! Scott, mine developed the same problem Monday night. I'm going to a carb cleaning with new boots and rings and hope that clears it up. Let you know how it works out.....-Pete

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          #5
          the inline filters work great for gravity fed bikes..however since ours are vaccuum fed, the reduce the vac's power, causing less gas to go to the engine causing fuel starvation...

          Comment


            #6
            errrr...

            Suzuki GS bikes do have gravity feed (i.e. no fuel pump).

            Vacuum is only used to turn on/off the feed (though on my bike, it appears that the petcock set on PRI feeds more gas than the petcock set on RUN or RES). The critical spec is how many cc's can flow through the inline fuel filter per unit of time.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by mrquadriga
              And here I thought I was the only '80 1100L owner on the site! ...
              Looks like it's you me and cheff1366. Anyone else ?

              Well the weather has been and is supposed to be crappy here till the weekend. I've got lots of work right now anyhow so I will hopefully get to some of the suggestions later Saturday or if not hopefully Sunday.

              I stopped by a repair shop yesterday afternoon and asked the owner about getting an appointment. First thing he says is "What kind of bike" When he heard 1980 I could hardly finish the rest when he said, "Sorry too old, can't get parts" I was a bit surprised at that response! I think maybe the guy did not like rice bikes.

              Thanks for the input people :-D!

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                #8
                Let's see some pics of these 80 1100Ls.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Looks 8-) chef. Boy, I'd love to get my engine looking that good.

                  Here's one of mine that the previous owner had emailed me. I have not really taken any yet aside from some specific areas for parts requests.

                  When I decided that I wanted to get another bike, my brother was sort of pushing the "cruiser style". I was wanting a sporty (but not cafe racer) style. I came across this one locally in the Want Advertiser, went to look at it, and in the end decided I'd try it. I'll admit, I do like putting my feet up !

                  -Scott

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Inline fuel filters can restrict flow becasue of the flange mount on the filter. Your fuel line MUST be 5/16" for the entire length, if you use 5/16" line and install an inline fuel filter, the line effectively becomes 1/4" line from the ID of the filter mounts.
                    Currently bikeless
                    '81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
                    '06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."

                    I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.

                    "Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Jethro
                      Inline fuel filters can restrict flow becasue of the flange mount on the filter. Your fuel line MUST be 5/16" for the entire length, if you use 5/16" line and install an inline fuel filter, the line effectively becomes 1/4" line from the ID of the filter mounts.
                      Is that only on the big bikes? I have an inline filter on mine with 1/4 polyurethane fuel line all the way and my filter points downward to the carbs. I have no problem with fuel issues and get 59 mpg. Is it because of the smaller carbs(bs 32 ss) i can do this?

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                        #12
                        On Sunday I got some time and pulled the tank & petcock. There was plenty of stuff around the petcock opening and around the base of the petcock. Although the screen looked clean and in good condition, based on the rust particles that I backwashed out of my inline filter (after the petcock screen) I will not be removing it. I wish I had a replacement handy, I put the old one back on after using some carb cleaner on it.
                        End result? Yesterday the bike seemed slightly at best, better. Took it out tonight and it is back to its tricks . I can only assune that some of the rust has made it into the carb(s).

                        Is there an easy way to clean them on the bike or do they have to be removed and disassembled? Should I just pull them off and soak them something?
                        Any of you locals know of a decent shop where you don't get the run around? I'll travel a bit for a good place, I don't care.

                        :arrow: Thanks

                        Comment


                          #13
                          gas

                          get a pingle valve best flow bolt in 1261fatty at photobucket

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by ScottMc1100L
                            On Sunday I got some time and pulled the tank & petcock. There was plenty of stuff around the petcock opening and around the base of the petcock. Although the screen looked clean and in good condition, based on the rust particles that I backwashed out of my inline filter (after the petcock screen) I will not be removing it. I wish I had a replacement handy, I put the old one back on after using some carb cleaner on it.
                            End result? Yesterday the bike seemed slightly at best, better. Took it out tonight and it is back to its tricks . I can only assune that some of the rust has made it into the carb(s).

                            Is there an easy way to clean them on the bike or do they have to be removed and disassembled? Should I just pull them off and soak them something?
                            Any of you locals know of a decent shop where you don't get the run around? I'll travel a bit for a good place, I don't care.

                            :arrow: Thanks
                            The best thing to do is follow the directions on carb cleaning on this sight and order some o-rings from Robert Barr at www.cycleorings.com and clean them yourself.It not that hard and you will save lots of money to spend on other things for it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              But if the rust is coming from your tank, you've simply got to remedy that or your problems will only keep coming back.

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