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Confused about strange dual-state '78 750

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    Confused about strange dual-state '78 750

    I have a '78 750 that either runs well or doesn't run as well. There's no inbetween, it's like a switch. The problem is electrical.

    In the good state, it runs as it does from the factory, pulling hard past 5000 rpms, even in fifth. 100 mph doesn't seem like a problem (never tested).

    In the weak state, it feels like a cylinder dies at full throttle. My personal speculation is that the spark is too weak to fully ignite the denser fuel-air mixture pumped into the combustion chamber at wide open throttle. The bike will struggle to 80 mph.

    Idle is the same for either state.

    Again, this is not a carb problem, it is electrical. I am certain of this. All four cylinders have spark. In the weak state, the spark color changes from orange to dark blue but is not fat (less than half a millimeter wide). In the good state it is probably fat.

    Coils are at 4.7 ohms each.

    1 and 4's coil: 42.7K ohms between wires
    2 and 3's coil: 32.0K ohms between wires

    Both coils get 11.7 volts with the ignition on and bike not running. Battery is new and at 12.53 volts.

    Points are at .014 and 8,000 miles old, as are the condensers.

    The bike still runs but not optimally. One clue is that there has been some stormy weather in the northeast since I rode the bike last. The long-gone instrument panel lights in my father's Dodge Dart suddenly came back on after this weather. The humidity is screwing around with things...

    I can tell between states because in the good state, the GS throws my head back as soon as 2,000 rpm.

    I miss the good state

    My question is, did I miss something? I thought my timing was good, maybe I should recheck...

    #2
    I think I've figured out what it is. On the outer cylinders, 1 and 4, the connection between the spark plug boot and the spark plug wire is not very good. I pulled these apart to trim the wires and have since not connected them very well. The wire can be pulled out of the boot easily.

    This is because I left some wire outside of its insulation, thinking that it should brush the spike-like contact in the boot. This is incorrect? the wire should be cut flush with its insulation so that the spike pierces into the insulation hole and contacts all threads of the wire in one place. I will test this tomorrow.



    Edit: Later note: This didn't work. In fact, it seemed to make my weak state more stable. Riding around with the copper wire hanging out of the insulation like a brush onto the spark plug boot inlet spike got me little periodic jolts of the strong state.

    The wire may be shorting out on something...
    Last edited by Guest; 07-11-2006, 04:54 AM.

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      #3
      New coils + wires did not solve the problem. Replacing points and condensers next; they've been in there for a few years.

      Note: Always try cheaper fix first.

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        #4
        New points and condensers did not solve the problem. Going to the carbs next despite my intuition. I will replace ground wires while I have the carbs removed.

        Cylinder 1's plug looks fouled, I am checking that cylinder's carb. It is balanced strangely, too closed. Adjusting it open a little to see what happens, will report back.

        Another thing that makes me think that it is the carburetors is that the exhaust from 1 and 2's pipe is cooler than the exhaust from 3 and 4's pipe, indicating a too-rich condition, which coincides with the fouled plug on 1. It could also mean low spark strength... will anyone confirm this for me? What can still effect spark strength if the points, condensers, coils, spark plugs, and spark plug wires are new?
        Last edited by Guest; 07-23-2006, 01:58 PM.

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          #5
          Problem found. Not related to any of the work I've done. It had to do with the cool exhaust from the left bank of cylinders. Spark plug #1 was fouled out and was either not firing or firing very weakly. Replacement with a spare plug instantly brought the bike back to full life.

          I'm chalking it all up to preventative maintenance...

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            #6
            Dang, cheap fix NOT!
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              Glad you found your problem. Just a note of caution - there is usually a reason why a plug fouls. Plugs rarely fail all on their lonesome. Keep an eye on it.

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                #8
                Glad we could help

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