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HELP!! GS1100 Carb problem!!!

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    HELP!! GS1100 Carb problem!!!

    1983 GS1100GL. Got the carbs off for a good cleaning and new o-rings. While disassembling, everything was going nice and smoothly until I got to the last carb. I know, Murphy's Law! The air screw (top front) is froze solid. I have tried soaking it with WD40 and even used the propane torch to heat up the housing a bit. NOTHING! I even let it soak in the can of carb cleaner for a good while and it will not budge. I know I can reassemble and run it this way IF I have to but would rather not. Any idears??????

    Thanks! Greg

    #2
    Man, almost everyone with these CV type carbs have run into this issue, including me. I ended up screwing it up to the point I had to replace the carb body. Either bring it to a machine shop or attempt to drill it out, but that's how I ruined mine.(Not saying much about my skills) Have you stripped the slot in the head? Also, cheap tools doesn't help much.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      The slot was a bit mangled before I got into it so apparently an owner before me had a tried to remove them. Gonna take the housing to work with me tomorrow and try a couple of things but have posted in the "Wanted" section !! From what I understand unless I have some iding problems I needn't worry about this screw, correct? The other 3 came out as expected.

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        #4
        Yep, see how you go tuning things before you really try to budge it.

        This is one of the perennial pains associated with brass screws in aluminium metal... the reactivity and local electrolysis means that the things bascially chemically weld themselves into place.

        Why oh why didn't Mikuni, Keihin et al make aluminium screws?!!!!!!

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          #5
          Dremel

          I know this will sound down and dirty, but I had three of those f#@ckers stuck on my 82 gs650g and the solution was to cut a slot down the entire carb body where the low idle screws thread in. The threads on the body don't start until about halfway down, so you don't really affect the threads. Basically, you're making a deeper slot in the screws so you can get a better screw driver in there. Worked well for me. Oh yeah, a liberal spraying with pb blaster goes a long way to, just remember to replace them baby orings for safe measure.\\/

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            #6
            Before the screw driver slot is completely gone, try squareing off your screw driver tip on a grinder. This will create sharper edges on the blade of your screw driver and give it a little more bite in the slot. Make sence?
            This worked great for me.
            Good Luck!!

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              #7
              These screws are not brass. I believe they are stainless. Non-magnetic and a bright shiney silver. Dug around in my tool box at work and found a "special" screwdriver made for stripped heads. Gonna give it a try.

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                #8
                I got it out today!! Had to slot the bodty as mentioned. Soaked it good with PB Blaster, then applied some heat and it finally came out. Guess I will J-B Weld the slots in the body.

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