idleing up and down

[bronzeback]

My new to me '82 GS 1100G Idles funny... on start up choke is needed. After warmup idles very low, after riding idles high. Sometimes idle "creeps up". I've played with the adjustment on the throddle and the bike can't decide what setting it likes. Aftermarket 4-1 and no idea if a rejet was ever done. Lots of 'Pops' on decel. Also likely needs a carb cleaning as she's sat for a while, with minimal milage over the past few years. Any thoughts?

[chef1366]

Sounds like an intake leak.

[bwringer]

The classic textbook signs of an intake leak.

The problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

The cure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

[bronzeback]

Hey thanks ! I'll see if I can find a set at the local dealership. Should I stop riding her in the meantime?

[bwringer]

Hey thanks ! I'll see if I can find a set at the local dealership. Should I stop riding her in the meantime?

Do not ride the bike until you fix the problem. Running lean makes the engine run extremely hot, and will eventually erode and destroy some very expensive metal parts, like the exhaust valves. Things get very ugly very fast.

The o-rings are not at all expensive, but they will need to be ordered from a dealer or your favorite parts site (like Bikebandit.com). You cannot use ordinary rubber o-rings, because ordinary engine heat will quickly destroy them -- these o-rings must be made from a heat-resistant rubber called Viton.

Check your intake boots carefully. These are about $20 - $25 each, and they last about 15 - 20 years -- every GS needs a set at some point.

[Pharkmeh]

Do not ride the bike until you fix the problem. Running lean makes the engine run extremely hot, and will eventually erode and destroy some very expensive metal parts, like the exhaust valves. Things get very ugly very fast.

The o-rings are not at all expensive, but they will need to be ordered from a dealer or your favorite parts site (like Bikebandit.com). You cannot use ordinary rubber o-rings, because ordinary engine heat will quickly destroy them -- these o-rings must be made from a heat-resistant rubber called Viton.

Check your intake boots carefully. These are about $20 - $25 each, and they last about 15 - 20 years -- every GS needs a set at some point.

crap - prolly shouldnt put it off on mine any longer - my poor ole thing cant idel at all any more but it runs sweet...

..i have avoided it so far cause Im not confident of doing the job....

I have looked at and saved the links you posted....


time to get the hands dirty - sigh...

many thxxx from Phark

[bronzeback]

Ordered the boots and gaskets

From the local dealer, should be here next week. Also replaced the air filter, as the old was was very old and brittle, maybe original (from bike bandit). It was definitly not fitted properly as some of the foam on the top of the filter was just gone and I'm sure some extra air was getting in. I glued weather stripping to the metal filter casing to create a seal between the filter and the plastic in the air box, replacing the old foam that had withered away. She definitely seems to idle better, but the same symptoms are there, just not as bad. Took a short ride tonight and felt at the stop lights she was idling steady, but when I got home to the garage the idle shot up. Tried the WD-40 on the boots, but idle didn't change. I'll get the carbs off, replace the boots and gaskets, and go from there.

[bwringer]

Much like you did on the air filter, use the foam weatherstripping to seal the end caps on either side of the airbox. It won't run right unless these are also airtight. Air should only be able to get in via the snorkel and the drain holes in the bottom.

Also make sure the boots and clamps between the airbox and the carbs are in decent shape. Regular hose clamps are too wide -- these must use the narrow original clamps.

[bronzeback]

Huh...The foam on the end caps was gone too but I didn't weatherstrip those. I will now and repost. Thanks!

[bronzeback]

Also with the lack of effect from the WD40 on the boots, maybe there is not a gasket/boot leak? The local shop places my $106 order today at 2pm EST. I can still cancel it before then, once they order though I'm commited.

[bronzeback]

Looks like I'll be parking her until I can get those gaskets and boots on. Short ride today and the same issues. Not nearly as bad since the air box fix, and decreased pops too, but she can't decided where she likes to idle. Ugh, I really didn't want to deal with taking the carbs off until Winter...

[bronzeback]

Ready for the parts

Got the airbox, carbs and boots off. Those screws are stuborn! a couple loosened right up, but a few I had to dremel a flat side to, then lock vive grips on them (I'll be replacing w/ SS allen screws). Tip: once one comes off on a given boot, tap the boot on that side, rotating it counter clockwise, this loosened the other screw. No obvious damage to the boots or gaskets. All kinds of crud that shouldn't be there where the boots should have been flush with the engine though. I'm guessing that's a sign that air was getting in. I'd like to replace the bands, as some are bent a little, and some screws are starting to strip. Are they Suzuki specific or should I be able to get them an auto parts store?

[chef1366]

Use Suzuki, hose clamps are too wide.

[bronzeback]

DONE!... For now

Put the new boots on with new gaskets and new SS bolts. Rechecked air box and noticed two of the four screws that hold the two halves together were missing. Replaced. Put carbs and box back on. Started her up and took a spin. Idleing nice and steady now, I think the intake leak problem is solved thanks to this board. THANKS EVERYONE!

Several projects to go: Needs tach cable, light on instument panel doesn't work, rear brake light only works w/ foot brake (not w/hand brake), still a little popping coming from the exhaust, something is up in the steering column, when the steering is dead center it feels like its in a grove or something, just enough to notice. Lastly...the dreaded charging issue: she ain't gettin' juice...one thing at a time!