Master Links

[earlfor]

Rick, when you change to the more expensive chain, check the sprockets for wear. An old stretched chain will round off the sprocket teeth and if you install a new chain on worn sprockets, they will destroy the new chain. Sprocket teeth should have square edges. If they appear at all chisel toothed, replace them.
I have about 15000 miles on my "new" sprockets and chain and there is no noticable wear on anything. Nothing needs adjustment.......just a little chain lube once a week. :-) :-)

Just a note: Some manufacturers make countershaft sprockets that require (and they include) a shim that is to be installed on the countershaft between the sprocket and case to place the sprocket in alignment. You can use a string to check sprocket alignment.

Earl

thanks earl, looks like ill have to save longer for a chain, im about to make a website (HELP SAVE THE GS FUND!) for donations, yeah right that will work!

[Anonymous]

yup my front sproket is real bad, rear sproket looks good but for 30$ ill change it.

[Anonymous]

To anyone that's interested, changing to a 530 pitch chain and sprockets shaves some weight (free horsepower and helps handling..a little), costs a little less, and is more than strong enough for anything short of a full-on drag bike. A standard (non o-ring) chain costs even less, and doesn't eat as much horsepower as an o-ring chain, but the trade-off is a little more maintenance. Just some options to consider.
Mike

[Anonymous]

To anyone that's interested, changing to a 530 pitch chain and sprockets shaves some weight (free horsepower and helps handling..a little), costs a little less, and is more than strong enough for anything short of a full-on drag bike. A standard (non o-ring) chain costs even less, and doesn't eat as much horsepower as an o-ring chain, but the trade-off is a little more maintenance. Just some options to consider.
Mike

I'm going to come asking for advice on that change to the 530 o-ring and sprockets whenever I can get enough miles on to wear out this OEM stuff.

My last revelation was going to chain wax when I had the chains off my (mostly roadgoing) dual purpose bikes; one with o-ring chain and one conventional. I don't have a lot of miles on yet, but this is the only product I've found with zero flingoff, despite lots of fancy promises by all those other products I tried. Yes, I haven't tried ALL the conventional lubes. I know others on the forum claim little or no flingoff from some products I haven't yet tried, but I'm hoping that the wax won't cake up quite as much with the fine dust I travel when I do go offroad.

[Dink]

I also tried "chain wax" and found it to be an excellent grinding paste.
It took my chain from fair shape to totally stuffed in next to no time. When I replaced my chain 'I took the opportunity and swapped to 530 and there is a noticable increase in grunt down low. I am trying 90w gear oil at the moment to see how that works, on the Tractor I have always used Castrol aerosol chain lube

[Anonymous]

O-ring chains don't actually require lube. The lube is sealed inside by the o-rings. All that's really necessary is to keep it fairly clean, and oiled enough to prevent rust. Spraying with wd-40, or a similar type solvent and a good wipe down has worked well for me. Don't use any solvents or chemicals that will damage the o-rings..read all labels.
Overlubing any chain (standard or o-ring) doesn't help. It only attracts dirt and speeds up the wear.
My personal favorite method is to spray the chain with lube, wipe off the excess, and let it set for a while before riding (i prefer Bel-Ray lube...sprays on thin, but thickens after a short period). Helps keep the chain clean, and no gooey blobs on the back of my leg.
Mike

[Anonymous]

O-ring chains don't actually require lube. The lube is sealed inside by the o-rings.

The pins are sealed where they meet the links, but I think the chain should get some lube where the rollers turn on the pins, and where the rollers meet the sprockets.

Spraying with wd-40, or a similar type solvent and a good wipe down has worked well for me.

I spray and wipe a little WD-40 onto the sideplates to fend off rust after bathing my chains in solvent. The solvent bath strips all the dirty goo, but without the WD-40 rust comes quickly. Unfortunately, even when I have the luxury of letting the WD-40 dry for a couple of days before relubing the chain, I find the WD-40 contributes to lube flingoff.

(i prefer Bel-Ray lube...sprays on thin, but thickens after a short period). Helps keep the chain clean, and no gooey blobs on the back of my leg.

Bel-Ray was the product I most recently abandoned. I found I couldn't escape having to clean goo off my wheel after the first ride. This despite putting a minimum of lube on a warm chain, wiping off every bit I could, and then letting thicken overnight.

I'm even willing to sacrifice some chain and sprocket longevity if this chain wax is as clean as I hope. It's certainly cleaner and easier to apply.

[Anonymous]

I've saw a newer product on TV that is a combined brake disc and sprocket. I wonder how long chains last in a set up like that. I bet you'd lose all rear braking power if it started to rain.

[Anonymous]

Well, the master link on my 400 flew off today. Nothing serious happened, at first I thought my bike had popped back into neutral as I shifted into 5th gear.

I think the clip came off due to my unadjusted chain whipping forward when I hit the gas. I've had sprockets on order for 3 weeks so I knew something was going to happen eventually.

Steve

oh yeah, I had to push Betty 3 kilometers to get back home

[humhead]

If you can stand the wallet bite, its is time and money saved to buy the best chain you can.

Words of wisdom!!! I learned the hard way last summer. This year, I'm getting the best chain available.
I just ordered one of those chain scrubbers/oilers. I hope this makes the clean & lube less of a mess.