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    Extreme Rich condition

    1980 GS750L (TSCC) 17.5k miles
    Ok, I think I have finally fixed my charging problem, (Knock, Knock) Now I am having a very rich condition. The bike pulls strong until about 6,000RPM and won't go any further then 7k maybe 7.5krpm in any gear. At idle, it emits black smoke, if you rev it it will go very quickly to 9k along with a big cloud of black smoke. I am going to make sure that all of the float levels are good tomorrow and adjust. I will probably end up taking the entire carb setup off and inspect everything. Should it be obvious if there is any wear on the needle and seat? I am not a huge carburetor buff, but I am learning along the way. Is there anything else that I should be looking for as far as wear and the actual need to rebuild the carbs? It has 17, 500 miles. I plan on adjusting the mixture screws and after I am done synchronizing the carbs as well. I am really hoping that it is a simple float adjustment problem, but I have not had much simple things wrong with this bike yet so...

    I know that I have to figure out the initial fuel problem, but, it takes a spark plug (NGK)d8ea or (ND)X24ES-U. I am currently using new NGK's, I would like to use a hotter plug. Does anyone know what a few plugs hotter then these would be?
    Last edited by Guest; 07-24-2006, 12:39 AM. Reason: no hits

    #2
    Check your air filter. The foam disintegrates over time and can block air flow. If that's not the problem, then it's time to pull the carbs. Check the Garage section on this site for carb cleaning step-by-step.

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      #3
      Its an 80 TSCC, it comes with a paper element which looks good. I am pretty sure that the carbs are very clean, but I know it doesn't take much. I will pull them in the morning. It would be nice if they were simply dirty. I basically have a good midrange with very poor low and highend. That along with hitious gas milege.

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        #4
        Have you read the plugs to see if all cyls are running rich? Sometimes the #2 carb can get flooded if the petcock diaphragm is leaking. Make sure you check the needles for the floats, they may not be seating correctly.
        Currently bikeless
        '81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
        '06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."

        I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.

        "Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt

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          #5
          I just checked the petcock, doesn't seem to be leaking. All plugs are sooty and black. One thing that I am wondering now that I have read a few problems with the petcock, I notice that mine makes a clunky noise at idle, you can hear it through the tank when it is coming down to idle. I know that it is the petcock opening and closing, but I was wondering if any one else's does that. I took it apart and everything looks ok...

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            #6
            Did you inherit this problem or did the bike run well earlier?
            Any mods or completely stock?
            Did the bike sit for awhile with gas in it?
            And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
            Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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              #7
              Well, about two months ago I got the bike and it didnt run. I took the bowls off and found that the rubber plugs that where in the pilot jet holes had melted into the bowls. I asked a few people on this site what the heck they where and they said that it was for emissions and that I didn't need them. I have the carbs off now and I am a little confused from that information. They say to turn these in all of the way and then back them out 2 full turns. It seems as if it is way too loose, not to mention, that it is an actual jet and that there used to be a plug there. I am confused.

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                #8
                sorry, got off of the subject a little. After I cleaned out the carbs with the carbs on the bike I managed to get it to run. No mods or anything other then fixing the charging system. It seemed to run well, I had figured that the charging problem was why it was running rich and didn't have any top end at all. It ran rich before but it seems worse now. I have only gotten into the first carb and everything looked good. I am going to check the float level and wait to hear what the hell to do with the mixture(pilot jet).

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                  #9
                  The pilot jets should be firmly tightened.
                  The mixture screws, on top/engine side of carbs, should be adjusted for highest rpm. I'd set them initially about 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated and go from there. At 1 1/2 turns, any excessive richness problems will not be because of the mixture screws though they may need fine tuning. As long as everything else is good with the carbs.
                  Check the floats as you planned. Measure from the bowl surface, gasket removed, to the top of the curved float body, not to the top of the arm that supports the float body. If your float valves have weak pins and they sag too much under the float weight, you should replace the float needle valves or accurate adjustments will be impossible.
                  With the bike sitting, gas can varnish up the passages everywhere. With your possible rich condition, pay special attention to the pilot and primary air jets at the filter side of carbs. Clean with cleaner and blow out with hi-pressure.
                  And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                  Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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                    #10
                    Also pay attention to the many small holes in the needle jets/bleed pipes. Plugged holes will compromise fuel atomization and cause a rich mixture too.
                    I have to wonder if the PO made any jetting changes, though they shouldn't have if the bike is completely stock.
                    And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                    Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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                      #11
                      I believe that the main jet is 112, the air jet is 170. I took everything apart and cleaned every little orfice and valley. The needle and seat looks good to me. Everything seems ok, on the first one anyhow. Thanks for your help, I will let you know what else I find.

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                        #12
                        Put the rubber plugs back in.

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                          #13
                          I am going to. The old ones melted for some reason. So I am off to find some new ones.

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                            #14
                            I also have an 80 petcock and it also made the same sound. I thought it was alright because it appeared to be working properly. I spent way too much time messing with carbs and such when all I needed was a new petcock.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                              #15
                              What did your bike do with the bad petcock?

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