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Removing carburetors on 78 GS550E

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    Removing carburetors on 78 GS550E

    I seem to be having trouble removing the carburetors from my GS. I happened to have a shop manual from a GS850, so I thought it would be close enough to go on. Perhaps I was wrong? It says to loosen the clamps from both sides of the carbs, as well as to loosen the airbox, and then to "simply" pull the carbs backwards and slide them out from the side. OK, I've loosened the clamps as well as the airbox, however, there doesn't seem to be enough leeway for me to squeeze the carbs out. If I pull them back, the clamps on the airbox side won't let me slide them out. If I push them forward, the clamps on the engine side won't let me slide them out. I also tried to remove the plastic part of the airbox from the metal box to make room, but there doesn't seem to be any easy way to do so because two of the bolts at the bottom are out of reach. Am I missing something from the manual for the GS550? Or is it normal to have to squeeze them out? The other issue is that, after I get them out and cleaned, it won't be an easy task putting them back in. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!!

    #2
    no idea if it will work for you, but i pull the air box back as far as it goes, pull the carbs from the boots on the engine, then remove the boots. the carbs will easily slide out followed by the air box.

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      #3
      78 gs550 carbs out easily (almost)

      I have a 77 gs550 and have had the carbs out at least 3 times, you must get those 2 lower screws out of the front of the air box and every other screw and bolt and battery so it is completely free. You most also move back the front part of the rear fender (held in place in grommets like a side cover , just squeeze the fender together)and push back against the tire. The screws are almost hidden just above the engine casing , and they are hard to get at and they thread into a plate that is in the steel air box . I had to make a tool out of a wrench and a screwdriver bit . Once you get them out every thing will drop enough to easily wiggle the carbs out.Pull the air box off the back of the carbs first and it should drop enough,then pull out of engine side and tilt front down and back side up . Just do not forget to replace these screws !!! Beerman ;-{) Good luck

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        #4
        I gave up and went to pods... it would take me 30-45 minutes to get the carbs out and in. :-/ It just took LOTS of yanking. Twist the carbs counterclockwise as viewed from the right side... eventually the intakes will pull free of the airbox, and it should pop out of the head side boots as well.
        You'd have to be crazy to be sane in this world -Nero
        If you love it, let it go. If it comes back....... You probably highsided.
        1980 GS550E (I swear it's a 550...)
        1982 GS650E (really, it's a 650)
        1983 GS550ES (42mpg again)
        1996 Yamaha WR250 (No, it's not a 4 stroke.)
        1971 Yamaha LT2 (9 horsepower of FURY.)

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          #5
          I agree with what Beerman says. I have a '79 GS550E and the carbs fit really tight, but I've found that if you remove the the 3 10mm hex head bolts that hold the battery box, two up top right behind the gas tank and one behind the right side cover. This will free the battery box and attached airbox. If you then straddle the bike and grab each side of the carb rack and push backward as far as you can while at the same time twist upward (so the front of the carbs come up), the carbs will pop out of the intakes then you can move them forward to clear the air box boots. Then just wiggle the assembly out the right side of the bike. Don't forget the clutch cable. When I was jetting my bike, I got this down pretty good, you can have the carbs off in 5 minutes. Installing is the reverse though sometimes it's easier to push the carbs into the intake boots first, then wiggle/pry the airbox back into position.

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            #6
            I know this is an old thread, but I alway figure old thread updates are better than repetition. Same issue...but please elaborate...should I remove the clutch cable as well? Is there a trick to that, because I removed the lock nut and started unscrewing the cable, but can't seem to remove it all the way.

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              #7
              nm...took a break, went back out. 2 min later, they're off.

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