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No more then 6kRPM's
I just got done tearing apart the carbs and setting the float levels, and cleaning what ever needed to be clean (not much). I set the float levels to 23mm. Put new plugs into the pilot jet spots and checked over everything. Now even in neutral, it wont rev over 7kRPM and when I ride it as soon as you give it a touch of gas it will bogg heavily. I am about to park this thing in a fire with a big smile on my face. I did mess with the petcock a little, I took that apart after and looked it over and everything looks fine. Please help.
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If your air box is not back on and the filter in and the ends sealed up, it will do that. -
It is all back together better then what it was when I took it apart.Comment
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Even at idle if you gas it in neutral and give it too much it will die, bogg out. This thing is killing me. Do I need to maybe adjust the floats a little less then 23mm? It idles great and if you don't hit the gas too hard it will rev to 5 or 6k nicely then start popping and all kinds of #%$@. Can someone bring over their magic wand? I think mine is broken...
The book says that the float level should be between 21.4 and 23.4. I had all four right at 23mm. I just can't seem to figure out what this problem is. I pulled the plugs after taking a short and frustrating trip on it and they looked fine.Last edited by Guest; 07-25-2006, 08:55 PM.Comment
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Any other idea's?Comment
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Hang in there Hobie-As the LEAST technically proficient person on the forum all I can suggest is use the search feature. I remember something about where to measure float height as being a common problem. I'm sure the answer will come and when you solve it it won't seem so bad. (Did you bench sync?)Comment
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Well, as far as bench sync. No, and I am not sure how too. Can you explain it to me please.Comment
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It's the art of positioning all the throttle plates at the same position. It's only a warmup for a vacuum sync.
1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Thanks for the ebay link, you really think that could be it? I read in the back logs that you are not a big fan of the stock petcocks and went to a pingle. Other then blowing another $80 or so on that wouldn't it be alright to modify the vacuum petcock to run like a normal one? I know that I am probably setting myself up for that question, but I am trying to get by. Could I just take out the little O ring on the little piston inside the petcock? Would that work? If the floats do their job then I shouldn't really have a problem right?Comment
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I have a stock petcock I bought off Goergefix on Fleabay. Never had a problem since. If you modify it I've heard people put an inline on and off valve, but make sure it has the 5/16in opening for fuel flow or you'll still have fuel starvation.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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