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Low End Knocking When First Starting Motor
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Low End Knocking When First Starting Motor
I have an 81 1000L I got used with 11,000 miles and not on initial start up but after approx 10 - 15 seconds I have a mild knocking that seems to be coming from the upper right crankcase area. It goes on for about 15 - 30 seconds and I will gently take off and then the noise will stop completely. This only happens when I have not ridden it for a few days. After the initial cold startup this sound does not happen again. It also does not usually happen the same day if I have ridden it earlier in the day or does not make the sound at all if I make a short stop. I have switched to the Rotella Synthetic with no change in the pattern of the sound. Once warm the motor runs strong and quiet with no oil consumption. I think I may have a partially blocked oil passage or partially blocked oil screen and am planning on dropping the pan over the winter to clean the screen. From the other posts on this site I do not think trying to flush the motor is a good idea because of the lack of a safe flushing material. Any suggestions on other items to check? Thanks for any suggestions.82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)Tags: None
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Check torque on your clutch nut.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Road_Clam
Originally posted by twr1776I have an 81 1000L I got used with 11,000 miles and not on initial start up but after approx 10 - 15 seconds I have a mild knocking that seems to be coming from the upper right crankcase area. It goes on for about 15 - 30 seconds and I will gently take off and then the noise will stop completely. This only happens when I have not ridden it for a few days. After the initial cold startup this sound does not happen again. It also does not usually happen the same day if I have ridden it earlier in the day or does not make the sound at all if I make a short stop. I have switched to the Rotella Synthetic with no change in the pattern of the sound. Once warm the motor runs strong and quiet with no oil consumption. I think I may have a partially blocked oil passage or partially blocked oil screen and am planning on dropping the pan over the winter to clean the screen. From the other posts on this site I do not think trying to flush the motor is a good idea because of the lack of a safe flushing material. Any suggestions on other items to check? Thanks for any suggestions.
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Thanks for the advice, I will check both suggestions. With the low mileage I wouldn't expect to have the wear but I suspect the bike sat somewhere for a long time and that is not usually good for motors. If the bearings are the culprit would it be motor rebuild time or should I just run it. Thanks82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)
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flyingace
These are roller bearings, so 'dry rap' does not apply. If the bearings knock they will always knock. You can check your rod bearings using a pencil or dowel. Just remove the plugs, rotate engine until the piston is just past TDC. Then push down on it from the plug hole. Any detectable downward movement means a bad bearing.
Since you are going to remove your oil pan anyway, you can check your mains then. See if there is any noticable play in the crank. Any movement is a bad sign. You can also look for metal shavings in the oil pan. These are the result of worn bearings.
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