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    replace connector or harness?

    I have been trying to figure out why my 82 GS1100E won't charge. Just bought a new battery, so I could run down the stator papers, and on step 2 (voltage drop from postitive terminal, which was .35V, which is more then the .2V spec) realized that the connector from the R/R is HOT to the touch.

    Based on other folks experience, can I replace just the connector or should I just give in now and get a new harness? The bike has been mostly well behaved otherwise, and the wiring is in alright shape, although not great.

    Suggestions (other than bikebandit, though that's OK) on where to get these would also be appreciated.

    Nick

    #2
    You don't need a new harness. Just remove the connector(s) and slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wire. Twist the wires together and make a clean solder joint. Cover the solder joint with the heat shrink tubing.

    Overheated, corroded connectors on the charging system are very common on these bikes. While you are at it, check and repair other charging system connectors as needed. Removing the connectors and making a clean solder joint will eliminate the connector corrosion problem. If connectors are not replaced, coat the connections with electrical grease to improve connections and retard corrosion. Make sure that the R/R ground connection is clean and tight. It's also a good idea to run an extra separate ground wire from the R/R ground to the negative battery terminal.

    Comment


      #3
      The terminal connection may be hot, but is it corroded, which would justify mucking with it? If it's reasonably clean, then the heat may be indicative of a diferent problem than just high resistence at that point caused by corrosion.

      Take a look at the output to the battery, check AC and DC voltage. If you are getting any AC (more than a couple of volts) , then your rectifier is shot.

      Finish going through ALL the Stator Paper tests, the more information you have the better.

      Don't consider replacing your harness, that's like replacing your car because you have a flat tire.

      Comment


        #4
        If there were no problem with the connection, both wires would be overheated, not just the connection. A hot connector is a sign of a poor connection causing high resistance. This results in a local hot spot at the connector. It is not a sign of a bad R/R. A R/R will eventually go bad (if it hasn't already) if the connections are not fixed. Poor connections which generate heat are a cause of problems, and the effect may result in R/R failure.

        I does no harm to check R/R function, but connections generating heat should always be fixed before they cause major problems.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Boondocks
          If there were no problem with the connection, both wires would be overheated, not just the connection. A hot connector is a sign of a poor connection causing high resistance. This results in a local hot spot at the connector. It is not a sign of a bad R/R. A R/R will eventually go bad (if it hasn't already) if the connections are not fixed. Poor connections which generate heat are a cause of problems, and the effect may result in R/R failure.

          I does no harm to check R/R function, but connections generating heat should always be fixed before they cause major problems.
          You are, of course, 100% correct.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the suggestions.... I did not see any obvious corrosion on the male or female sides of the connectors, but I'll check again and see if I can grab some contact cleaner and elec. grease, just to make sure.

            Nick

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Flyin' Low
              Thanks for the suggestions.... I did not see any obvious corrosion on the male or female sides of the connectors, but I'll check again and see if I can grab some contact cleaner and elec. grease, just to make sure.

              Nick
              The way that connectors frequently start to corrode is on the inside where you can't see it. The corrosion starts between the wire end and the crimp made to a connector. The wire and connectors are made of different materials and expand at different rates when heated. If the crimp is not perfectly air tight, after enough heat-cool cycles the crimp may allow air between the connector and wire. The air allows oxidation (corrosion), which has to be only a very thin film to cause overheating and impede current flow.

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