Battery draining fast...regulator??

[Boondocks]

If you are using a trickle charger that is unregulated and not a "smart" charger which stops charging and holds a float voltage, you will damage your battery if it is left connected too long. Cheap, unregulated trickle chargers, although they have a low charging current, will allow voltage to rise to unsafe levels over 15V and will damage the battery cells if left connected for extended periods.

[chuckycheese]

Yep

Yes, I'm aware that that's important. I use the Battery Tender Plus which I think is about as good as they come.

In any case, I checked my battery after letting it sit for 15 hours with the solenoid disconnected and everything else intact. It has drained slightly and is now measuring 12.65 volts. There may still be a slight loss somewhere but it would seem to me that the solenoid was probably responsible for most of the draining problem. I suppose there could be another reason but that's something I simply don't know about.

I'm off to Lowe's to get a new solenoid...and I'll see what happens. If this doesn't solve my problem, I'm taking it to an independent mechanic that works on old bikes on Monday...This project has been keeping me awake at night but it's not going to any longer.:-|

Thanks, Philip and also tconroy.:-D

[Boondocks]

Your battery hasn't drained slightly. It doesn't have a drain. After charging a battery has a temporary surface charge, which gradually diminishes over 4-8 hours until it reaches a stable true battery voltage.

The BCI (Battery Council International) standards for 100% charge on a flooded lead acid battery 4-8 hours after charging is 12.65V. It looks like you're back in business. \\/

[earlfor]

I wouldnt waste my money on replacing the solenoid. Unless the signal wire from the starter circuit is activated, the solenoid can not have internal continuity and there is no current flow possible. If the solenoid is activated (has continuity), your starter will be turning.

Earl

I'm off to Lowe's to get a new solenoid...and I'll see what happens. If this doesn't solve my problem, I'm taking it to an independent mechanic that works on old bikes on Monday...This project has been keeping me awake at night but it's not going to any longer.:-|

Thanks, Philip and also tconroy.:-D

[Boondocks]

I wouldnt waste my money on replacing the solenoid. Unless the signal wire from the starter circuit is activated, the solenoid can not have internal continuity and there is no current flow possible. If the solenoid is activated (has continuity), your starter will be turning.

Earl

Chucky, Earl is right. If you haven't checked your starter button (switch) for continuity and to make sure that you are getting voltage from the starter switch to the solenoid when the button is depressed, the solenoid may not be at fault. A bad starter switch could cause the same symptoms. Before you replace the solenoid, check the starter switch for continuity and voltage to the solenoid when the button is depressed. Thanks, Earl.

[chuckycheese]

Solenoid

Thanks, guys! (and welcome to the problem, Earl:-D )

I bought a solenoid at Lowe's but haven't opened it up because I thought I'd check here once more. I did check the continuity of the ignition but think I didn't check the switch itself, so I want to do that, as you suggest. By the way, the starter bypass on the clutch lever has long since been bypassed (and I checked that out again).

With the ignition on and my trusty assistant getting ready to push the starter button, where do I connect my probes? I'm thinking the red one goes to the green/yellow wire coming from the switch and the black one to a ground...is that correct? Am I checking for volts and hoping for around 12V?

Also, how can I check power to the solenoid when I push the starter button? I hate to give up after all your efforts. Thanks![-o<

[Boondocks]

With the ignition on and my trusty assistant getting ready to push the starter button, where do I connect my probes? I'm thinking the red one goes to the green/yellow wire coming from the switch and the black one to a ground...is that correct? Am I checking for volts and hoping for around 12V?

Right.

Also, how can I check power to the solenoid when I push the starter button? I hate to give up after all your efforts. Thanks![-o<

Power to the solenoid is supplied directly from the battery, and switched to the starter when the relay (solenoid) is activated by the starter button. If the starter button wire is hot when depressed, you should head a fairly loud clack from the relay when it is activated. If there is stilll no action from the solenoid, replace it.

[chuckycheese]

Almost

Well, I think we're almost there! I checked the voltage with the ignition on and the starter button depressed by unplugging the yellow/green wire that goes between the starter button and about 6 inches from the solenoid. I put the positive probe into the connection and grounded it.... It registered only .15 volts!! consistently (we tried several times).

Disconnected from the solenoid, the bike is still holding steady at about 12.5V. I think now I need to check the starter button and the wiring between the solenoid and the starter button..is that right?

Is it too early to get excited??8-[

[Boondocks]

Yes, it sounds like you're finally tracking it down.

I would check the starter button switch first, and doublecheck that you are getting 12V to the switch, and then 12V on the other side of the switch when depressed. If so, then trace the wiring from the switch to the solenoid looking for a short or break.

It's OK to start getting excited. When you're making progress you should feel good about it.

[chuckycheese]

Button

Well, I took some emery paper and got the starter button all cleaned up and it fired right up! I noticed that I was only getting about 9.5V between the switch and the solenoid, so I was surprised that it started.

I'm not sure how to test the voltage into the switch...do I run my probes between the 2 wires on the switch?

Even though it runs, it's still not charging up my battery.

[Boondocks]

Well, I took some emery paper and got the starter button all cleaned up and it fired right up! I noticed that I was only getting about 9.5V between the switch and the solenoid, so I was surprised that it started.

I'm not sure how to test the voltage into the switch...do I run my probes between the 2 wires on the switch?

Even though it runs, it's still not charging up my battery.

To test the voltage into the switch, put the red probe the side that is hot before the button is pressed and the black probe to ground.

[chuckycheese]

Done

I tested both sides of the switch, this time with the headlight turned off, and got 10.5V on both sides.

[tstephens]

check the leads into the rectifier...

I received a new rectifier once where the ground wire was in the wrong postion in the gang connecter. It was an easy fix but a dog to find. I had similar ohm meter readings and the battery would not charge when the bike was running. Good luck

[Boondocks]

I tested both sides of the switch, this time with the headlight turned off, and got 10.5V on both sides.

You could try to raise the voltage, but as long as it triggers the solenoid I wouldn't worry about it. That's the beauty of a relay. It can have trigger input voltage from a weak, diminished voltage source from running skinny wires through handebars and meager momentary contact (button) switches, but it only takes enough voltage to activate the relay switch to provide full battery voltage and current to the starter (or other destination). 10.5V is enough to get the job done as far as the solenoid is concerned.

[chuckycheese]

Thanks

Thanks, again, Philip for all of your assistance. I'm going to go ahead and run it for a few days and see what happens. I'll let you know, for sure!:-D