Blown Main Fuse???

[lostit23]

I've got a 1985 GS 700 ES with about 10k miles on it. I ride it to work every night with no problems. Today I got on it, started it and got about 10 feet before it just dies. I mean completely, no red oil, kickstand, or gear indicator. So common sense tells me to check the main fuse and no big deal (so I thought) it was blown. I put in a new one and the acc. lights come on and it even cranks over. The problem comes when I try to give it some gas and it pops it again. I pulled the tank and did a pretty thorough job of inspecting all the wiring, but found no shorts or bare wire at all. A kick in the right direction of what it could be would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
lostit23

[chef1366]

It sounds like your RR is shot.
Maybe this will help

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=190013769356&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[lostit23]

Do i need 2 worry about getting a stator? also? I keep hearing about this.
Thanks

[chef1366]

Stator puts out and the RR regulates. If your getting too much it's not the stator. Unless you have a major short of some kind. I hope Boondocks chimes in because I don't have the expertise to lay it all out for you.

[argonsagas]

If the problem is the R/R, the fastest way to determine that is to disconnect the R/R from the wiring harness....just remove the plug.

Usually, with the faulty R/R out of the picture, the bike will start up right away, and run on the battery. If not, there is another problem.

[Boondocks]

It's possible that the R/R or the wiring harness has a short. A visual inspection may not catch it. The short may be "borderline", that is, a wire may have had insulation damage that allows the bike to start, but fails when voltage rises with charging current.

I would disconnect the red R/R as argonsagas suggests, but reconnect it to the battery with a 15-20A in-line fuse. If the main fuse holds, but the R/R fuse blows, then the R/R would be the culprit. If the main fuse still blows, then you will know that the R/R is not at fault and the short is probably somewhere in the wiring harness.

If you can't find the source of the short in the wiring harness, you can bypass it by disconnecting the wires from the fuse box to the ignition switch (disconnect both sides) and replacing the wires. The short could be on the hot side before the ignition switch, but it seems more likely that it's on the return wire that is hot only when the ignition is switched on. A short in the wire on the always hot side of the ignition switch could blow the main fuse when the ignition was turned off.

In the event that replacing the wires doesn't stop the main fuse from blowing, the ignition switch may be shorting out under load.

[lostit23]

Well I finally was able to find/afford one so I put it in.(R/R). All it will do is crank when I hit the starter button. I primed it first, tried using starting fluid and made sure the battery was fully charged. It might be my imagination, but it almost sounds like the starter, (or whatever is turning) is turning faster than before. If that helps. Please any (more) ideas would be appreciated. I do beleive the R/R did need to be changed, so that was o.k. But this is a new FRUSTRATING problem. I desperately need to get this mother running to go to work on.
Thanks,
lostit23