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    #31
    OKay here's the results I got:

    Took line off petcock and cranked bike over - Gas came out
    Took line off petcock and turned to prime = Gas came out

    Went to start and no luck. So switched to prime and waited still no luck. Pulled choke out and cranked bike and then it sounds like it's flooded.
    Anytime that I try to start the bike with choke out, I no longer hear the compression sound, the sounds changes to more like it would if it was badly flooded.

    Followed gas line over to carbs and there is a small filter right before the carbs. Could that be plugged?

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      #32
      One more thing I discovered. When the bike is parked.(kick stand down) The handle bars are turned to the left. When the bike is running and I turn the handle bars that direction the engine speeds up. The throttle cable must be tight and when the handle bars are turned left it pulls on the cable. Could the reason for my bike being very hard to start for the first start of the day is because it's flooded? Just thought if the throttle cable is being pulled all night maybe the carbs are flooded...
      Just thinking out loud hoping that something I say makes sense to someone and I can get my bike starting easier.

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        #33
        Oh another thing I was wondering....

        I put the bike on the center stand for the first time today. Is the back wheel suppose to turn when the clutch is pulled in? Mine does..

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          #34
          Originally posted by romtang
          One more thing I discovered. When the bike is parked.(kick stand down) The handle bars are turned to the left. When the bike is running and I turn the handle bars that direction the engine speeds up. The throttle cable must be tight and when the handle bars are turned left it pulls on the cable. Could the reason for my bike being very hard to start for the first start of the day is because it's flooded? Just thought if the throttle cable is being pulled all night maybe the carbs are flooded...
          Just thinking out loud hoping that something I say makes sense to someone and I can get my bike starting easier.
          Throttle cable is adjusted too tight if that is happening. Yes, that could be part of your problem....if enough throttle is given, even with choke on, the choke circuit is bypassed. Also, could be that your choke pick-up tubes are clogged, not giving the engine enough fuel when it's cold.
          Oh another thing I was wondering....

          I put the bike on the center stand for the first time today. Is the back wheel suppose to turn when the clutch is pulled in? Mine does.
          Yes, this is normal, nothing to be worried about.
          Frosty (falsely accused of "Thread-Hijacking"!)
          "Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot."

          Owner of:
          1982 GS1100E
          1995 Triumph Daytona 1200

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            #35
            Originally posted by frosty5011
            Throttle cable is adjusted too tight if that is happening. Yes, that could be part of your problem....if enough throttle is given, even with choke on, the choke circuit is bypassed. Also, could be that your choke pick-up tubes are clogged, not giving the engine enough fuel when it's cold.
            Choke doesn't really help me anytime. cold or not if i pull the choke it just sounds flooded and WILL not start then.. I've never been able to start bike with choke pulled...

            How do I check the choke pick up tube?

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              #36
              To check the choke pick-up tubes you have to pull the carbs and remove the bowls. The choke tubes are the smaller ones beside the floats. Use a strand of copper wire to see if there is anything plugging them, then spray some carb cleaner and compressed air just to make sure.


              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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                #37
                If your engine rpms change just from turning the handlebars you've got a cable adjustment or routing problem. You need to deal with that before you do anything else. For one thing that is dangerous.

                There should be some discernible slack when you twist the throttle. You should be able to move it back and forth very slightly before it "catches" and starts pulling the slides in the carbs. Check with the handlebar moved to different positions. The amount of slack or play should stay the same. If there is no slack in any position you probably have an adjustment problem. If the amount of slack changes or goes away at different positions you probably have a routing problem or possibly you have the wrong cable for your bike.

                If you just trace the cable all the way down, turning the bars as you do, you should be able to spot the problem. It might be easier if you take the tank off while your are doing this.
                Last edited by dpep; 08-07-2006, 12:46 AM.
                Believe in truth. To abandon fact is to abandon freedom.

                Nature bats last.

                80 GS850G / 2010 Yamaha Majesty / 81 GS850G

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                  #38
                  There was 1 nut that was loose on top of the carbs where the throttle cable attaches. I tightened that and now it is less of a problem with the speeding up with turning left.

                  I used a little seafoam in gas tank and it's running a little better..

                  Anyone know where I could get specs for how tight to tighten screws when working on the oil/head gasket? (1980 GS850G)

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                    #39
                    If operation of the choke has no effect you have plugged system. Your carbs need cleaned. If your hearing a hiss that stops when choke is pulled there's probably a leak before the carbs. I'm in Lincoln and I like to work on GS's, (rescued 5 850's in the last 3 years), if you could get it here on a weekend morning I would gladly help you get things sorted out. You would need an O Ring kit from www.cycleorings.com before hand. I've got the manifold O Rings on hand.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by arveejay
                      If operation of the choke has no effect you have plugged system. Your carbs need cleaned. If your hearing a hiss that stops when choke is pulled there's probably a leak before the carbs. I'm in Lincoln and I like to work on GS's, (rescued 5 850's in the last 3 years), if you could get it here on a weekend morning I would gladly help you get things sorted out. You would need an O Ring kit from www.cycleorings.com before hand. I've got the manifold O Rings on hand.
                      What would the charge be??

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                        #41
                        Hi, if you buy the Orings and 4 cans of good spray carb cleaner, you can have the intake orings for what I paid for them at bike bandit, $1.19 each. I aint looking to get rich, I won't charge any labor. I haven't had a project for 5 months and I'm getting itchy to buy a bike just so I'll have one to work on. Are you going to the vintage bike pic nic at pioneers park this sunday? Here's the ad.
                        ANTIQUE MOTORCYCLE picnic, Sunday, August 13th, noon to 3, Pioneers Park, Call Great Plains Cycle for details (402) 467-4126.

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                          #42
                          Wish I could make it to Lincoln this weekend but the Mrs. has this weekend booked:?

                          How long would it take to work on my bike?
                          Does it have to be cold, or could I ride it to Lincoln?

                          Trying to plan a time to head that direction....

                          James

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                            #43
                            It will take a 2-3 hours for the carbs if there's no snags. Have you had the carb bowls off and noticed any broken float posts? Are the factory plugs still covering the air screws? If not, are there any stripped screw heads down in the holes? All these will add more time. If they have never been tampered with it's a piece of cake. The intake manifold orings will take an hour or so. The only reason the bike would need to be cold is if you wanted to adjust the valves, otherwise riding it here would be fine.

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                              #44
                              Adjusting the valves could be done last couldn't it?

                              I'm just not sure when I could get away.. The bike came with the original owners manual and everything has been written down what has been done to the bike. Fianl drive was changed a long time ago. Don't remember just when I think couple seasons ago. Would it hurt the bike driving that far with that not being done?

                              James

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                                #45
                                I don't understand the changing the final drive nor what damage could be done. Engine has to sit a minimum of 12 hours before adjusting valves.

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