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Pulling cylinder head off a 83 1100

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    Pulling cylinder head off a 83 1100

    I know, I have pulled the head off of my GT but now with the GS1100E I am stumped.
    I have all the bolts,nuts and washers out.
    I have counted all of them and have them placed in separate bins.
    Exhaust pipes and carbs off. Cam Chain loose and attached to frame.
    Block of wood and rubber mallet to head. Cylinder head that is.
    I have tried alot of things and don't even want to think about busting a fin:shock:
    Will the compressed air in a cylinder lift her off?
    I didn't want to try turning the motor over especially with the cams removed.
    I don't know if that would hole a piston or break a valve.
    I am only removing the cylinder head to replace the leaking head gasket.

    Also when replacing the head gasket would it be just as a good idea to replace the base gasket at the same time?

    Thanks for the help.



    Moosy Moosy Moooooooooosy
    Last edited by crag antler; 08-08-2006, 06:00 PM.
    Doug aka crag antler

    83GS1100E, gone
    2000 Kawasaki Concours
    Please wear ATGATT

    #2
    One bolt that is sometimes overlooked goes in from the bottom of the head. It is centered between & above the two center exaust ports. Wouldn't crank the engine. Cranking the engine won't hole a piston, as all the valves will be closed as the cams are out. Cranking the engine could cause the cam chain to get wadded up in or around the crankshaft gear. Can't think of anything else that would have it stuck
    1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by rphillips
      One bolt that is sometimes overlooked goes in from the bottom of the head. It is centered between & above the two center exaust ports.
      That upside bolt is where most of the leak starts
      Doug aka crag antler

      83GS1100E, gone
      2000 Kawasaki Concours
      Please wear ATGATT

      Comment


        #4
        Here's an idea I saw in an auto mechanics trade magazine at my local garage a few years ago. I saved it "just in case", but I've never used it and don't know anyone who has. I'm sure it was written up for use in an automobile engine, but you might want to try it if you can get a second person to handle the cam chain and keep it from getting "wadded up" around the crankshaft sprocket as rphillips warns.

        According to the article, the procedure works "and there's no prying involved".

        Here's the procedure for what its worth:

        1. First, ensure that all of the head bolts are removed

        2. Next, remove a spark plug and fill a cylinder with grease. The cylinder must have good compression and the head gasket surrounding the cylinder must be intact.

        3. Reinstall the spark plug and ensure that the valves are closed.

        4. Turn the engine by hand using a breaker bar and socket.

        5. Since the grease can't be compressed, it will force the head to break away from the block.

        Note: to prevent damage, do not use the starter to turn the crankshaft!


        Also, since you've got the cams out and all the valves are closed, check to see if there are not two cylinders close to TDC. If so, consider filling both of those cylinders with grease in the hope of equalizing pressure across the head. Remember, we're working with aluminum here!

        One last thing: If you're not comfortable with this procedure, might be better not to try it!

        Good luck. Please let us know how you get the head off.

        Comment

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