Anyway...I know most of you have said to keep the gas in the tank, use stabil, and run the bike. This new mechanic...which I must say is FABULOUS...said "NO". He told me to drain the carbs, and the tank!! Wont the o-rings shrivel or something?? Rust will also get in the tank as well, right?? Why would he tell me this?? BTW...this is the second mechanic that has told me this...
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Winter Storage Question...
OK...I've read on here that if you store your bike ( I will have to do mine outside, but I am getting this "capsule" like cover for mine...
Anyway...I know most of you have said to keep the gas in the tank, use stabil, and run the bike. This new mechanic...which I must say is FABULOUS...said "NO". He told me to drain the carbs, and the tank!! Wont the o-rings shrivel or something?? Rust will also get in the tank as well, right?? Why would he tell me this?? BTW...this is the second mechanic that has told me this...Tags: None
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In my opinion
Have ~1/2 Tank of gas
Disconnect the fuel line.
Run the carbs dry.
Drain the bowls.
Upon spring
Change oil
Prime carbs
Get it running
Ride until you are low on gas
Put some nice new gas in.
Others will give you a much more complete list of things to do to prep a bike for storage and things to check when bringing it out. Motorcycle manuals also have a very long list.Yamaha fz1 2007
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speedzter2000
Hey, Marv...I WISH I could ride all year round!!!
Thanks spchips...I just worry about the internal parts...dont want to go throught the carb BS again...but...this new mechanic says it's the way to go...:?
What if I drain the carbs and leave the tank full, then drain the tank in the spring??
Thanks again, Guys...as always...the best
Janice
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
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You can do either, but if it were me leaving a bike outside specifically, I would in no way empty the tank. I fill it chock full, put in the required Stabil, run it for 5 minutes and shut it down. Then in spring I usually drain the tank, put the gas in my truck, and use fresh gas. Take the battery out, and shove rags in the airbox holes. Lube the chain heavily with gear oil. I'd usually start my bike each month though.
If you do empty the tank, I recommend getting some fogging oil, and spraying the inside of the tank heavily once a month. I have a few tanks in storage, that's what I do with them as they are empty. And yes, drain the carbs.Currently bikeless
'81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
'06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."
I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.
"Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt
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speedzter2000
Thanks Jethro..why drain the carbs?? Will it gum up even using stabil?? My thoughts are on track like yours...but...wont stuff get dried/frozen/condensation?? (Draining carbs)
Last year, I wiped the whole bike down with silicone spray to prevent rust, fogged the motor and airbox. Bike had old gas..started right up in the spring...granted, this was my 125 with ONE carb..
Just a thought..
Originally posted by JethroYou can do either, but if it were me leaving a bike outside specifically, I would in no way empty the tank. I fill it chock full, put in the required Stabil, run it for 5 minutes and shut it down. Then in spring I usually drain the tank, put the gas in my truck, and use fresh gas. Take the battery out, and shove rags in the airbox holes. Lube the chain heavily with gear oil. I'd usually start my bike each month though.
If you do empty the tank, I recommend getting some fogging oil, and spraying the inside of the tank heavily once a month. I have a few tanks in storage, that's what I do with them as they are empty. And yes, drain the carbs.
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Clone
1. Full tank of gas, less than that and you will get condensation in the tank and rust.
2. Stabil, recommended amount or more(always follow the directions), run it for 5-10 minutes.(I don't drain the carbs)
3. Remove the battery and put it on a tender.
4. I put it on the centre stand and balance it with tie-downs so there is no weight on either wheel, reduce tire pressure to 20lbs.
5. Blow about half a can of wd40 into the mufflers till it runs out the drainage holes. Then plug the ends with a peice of rag.
6. Plug the airbox intake with a rag shoot some wd40 on it. (stops mice and wasps)
7. Wipe the front sliders with wd40.
8. Wax it.
9. Kiss it goodnight.
10. Cover it with a sheet and then the plastic cover.8)
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I do pretty much the same as Clone, but I don't remove the battery. I run an extension cord to the bike and leave it connected there.
Also, do NOT start the bike every once in a while. Yes, it's music to the ears, but all the condensation in the crankcase and the exhaust system is just BEGGING for problems. If the weather breaks, check the tire pressure and go for a ride. When you get back, top off the tank and add a bit of Sta-Bil. Running the bike with the Sta-Bil will not hurt anything.
I also store the lawn mower the same way except for the battery tender. For some reason, it starts just fine in the spring, even on the fifth summer of the battery this year. The snowblower gets stored the same way, but at a different time, of course.
This past year was a bit mild here in southwest oHIo, so my Wing was never winterized. \\/ At least once in every calendar week I was able to ride it the half hour to work, so there was no point in winterization.
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Canada Dan
Holy crap guys! Its way to early to be even thinking these evil thoughts!:shock:
My bike was stored by the original owner in his garage for 20 years. Before tucking it in he filled it with gas, added stabilizer (ran it for a bit) and sprayed all the metal with WD40.
It ran fine when I fired it up all these years later and still does.
EDIT: I just saw the previous post by Steve - I agree, don't keep starting it. (The afore mentioned owner of my bike didn't and it worked out well)Last edited by Guest; 08-10-2006, 12:53 AM.
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speedzter2000
As Mr Burns would say "Excellent......"
It all makes sense..
Originally posted by Canada DanHoly crap guys! Its way to early to be even thinking these evil thoughts!:shock:
My bike was stored by the original owner in his garage for 20 years. Before tucking it in he filled it with gas, added stabilizer (ran it for a bit) and sprayed all the metal with WD40.
It ran fine when I fired it up all these years later and still does.
EDIT: I just saw the previous post by Steve - I agree, don't keep starting it. (The afore mentioned owner of my bike didn't and it worked out well)
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Originally posted by speedzter2000OK...I've read on here that if you store your bike ( I will have to do mine outside, but I am getting this "capsule" like cover for mine...
Anyway...I know most of you have said to keep the gas in the tank, use stabil, and run the bike. This new mechanic...which I must say is FABULOUS...said "NO". He told me to drain the carbs, and the tank!! Wont the o-rings shrivel or something?? Rust will also get in the tank as well, right?? Why would he tell me this?? BTW...this is the second mechanic that has told me this...
Full Tank of gas, Satbil, and a battery tender. Don't forget, even up north we get some good riding days and you don't want to miss them.1981 GS 450L
2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom
The good we do no one remembers.
The bad we do no one forgets.
Mark 5:36 -- Overhearing what they said, Jesus told him, "Don't be afraid; just believe".
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8trackmind
I agree with Scott. Get some cold weather gear and just ride it.
I rode in temps as low as 27 degrees with NO cold weather gear last year. (no point in having any down here)
The little 550 started on the first press of the button all winter.
They don't like to sit. Ride it. :-D
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Clone
Eh hm, community college bike repair course mechanic(yeah right) telling me how to store my bike
Before the days of Stabil, you had to basically dump a tank of gas, even though it was cheap by todays standard, not acceptable to many, so many people developed the store it empty idea. We had to store gas combines with the tank empty because who wants to dump 35 gallons of gas because it is bad. We also had to repair quite a few tanks because of corrosion holes,.
My experience has also been that the o-rings in the carbs dry out and crack, maybe somebody can explain that to me, those o-rings will last for years dry on the shelf, but once they are in gas for awhile. Remove the gas for 6-months and they are dry and brittle
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nichols750
Well, frost on the cars this morning, thought that it was a good idea to think about this awful subject again. so i'm going to bump this in case anyone else needs some suggestions on winterizing.
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