Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Frustrated and I want to ride!!!
Collapse
X
-
They have the plug boots on them, so they should be ready to go as soon as I can strip them off the bike. I have commitments on Saturday, but should be able to make down to Akron on Sunday. PM me with your address, and we'll plan on me being there around 1-2 pm, as long as that works for you.JP
1982 GS1100EZ (awaiting resurrection)
1992 Concours
2001 GS500 (Dad's old bike)
2007 FJR
-
topher1556
Well,
jpaul drove all the way to my house, and I got some good coils from him. I put them on and now have good spark to all four cylinders.
It still does not start. I checked the four plugs, and only one (the #4) has fuel on it, the other 3 look brand new (which they are).
I have a compression gauge that I'm going to check all the cylinders with just to make sure they are up to spec.
Any more help out here?? Should I try to use starter fluid and see if it will rumble to life?
Comment
-
GS850_Coug
Originally posted by topher1556 View PostWell,
Any more help out here?? Should I try to use starter fluid and see if it will rumble to life?
How did you verify spark at each cylinder? Also, did you verify there is actually fuel in all the carb bowls (assuming there is because your petcock is not in place is not acceptable)? Keep in mind fuel+spark=fire...If both are good, the bike will run. If you DEFINITELY have spark, your problem is fuel (carbs) and vice versa. Of course, this assumes your bike was running somewhat before you did your carbs. Going back to the beginning of your thread and following it through, you have made some assumptions and don't tell us how you have concluded you have spark and fuel. Based on the assumptions and what you tell us, you have fuel, and you have spark. Based upon what I read in your last post, I question your spark, and also question your fuel through the carbs.
Comment
-
topher1556
Ahh... I found a major culprit in this exercise.
NO COMPRESSION IN ANY CYLINDERS. One cause came to mind: the timing got off somehow.
It seems that I (stupidly) adjusted the valves while the tensioner was off the bike for seal replacement in the tensioner! This allowed the chain to jump 3 pins, and threw off the whole thing.
So...I checked the timing out of frustration and verified that it was off. So, I'm now currently working on fixing the timing and will post more once I get the timing done.
I hate making stupid mistakes like this. At least I'll learn for the next time.
The timing being off obviously kept the engine from making vacuum therefore keeping fuel out of most of the cylinders.
Comment
-
GS850_Coug
-
Cyg
as for stupid mistakes, I still make them after selling twenty bikes since I started getting into this. That part I think we all do. So dont feel bad there.
Comment
-
topher1556
OKAY,
She's back up and running...sort of. I can actually see how rich it's running. And my #1 cylinder exhaust isn't hot.
Will these issues go away once I synchronize it properly?
The great thing is it runs!!
Comment
-
GS850_Coug
I would suggest adjusting the mixtures first, then a sync. At that point you could continue the fine tuning of the mixtures.
Comment
-
topher1556
-
GS850_Coug
-
topher1556
what would be the best place to start with them? Right now I think they are approx 1 1/4 turns out from being "lightly set".
and since they are air screws, am I correct in thinking they control the air into the idle circuit. so by adjusting back/out they let in more air, and adjusting down/in the let in less? so to fix my richness, I need to let them out more?
And If I remember from other posts, I do this once the engine is warmed up, with the idle set to about 3k using the idle screw in the middle of the bank of carbs. Then I adjust the air screws for the highest idle setting? Then once all are set, I reset the idle to 3k and begin the synch act?
And lastly...I have new fuel line connected to the reservoir I'm using to run the bike with the tank off. Does everyone think it would be okay to keep the extra line attached so it makes tank removal easier? Or should I cut it to the proper length?
Comment
-
You need to have the proper length because it will kink and cause fuel starvation.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
topher1556
-
Use the highest rpm method. I set the main rpm knob at the lowest without stalling so I can tell when the engine is rising and falling while adjusting the screws. Seat one screw and back it out till you hear the engine at it's highest rpm. If you take it out too far you will actually hear the rpm start to drop. Do this with each cylinder. I grew up in Canal Fulton, Ohio1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
topher1556
okay..... I CAN'T TAKE THIS. I'm going to try and keep from swearing.
This thing is the MOST tempermental piece of $%!&.
I started to adjust the air screws, and as the rpms would rise, i'd use the throttle screw to adjust it back down. Then, once it would start to decrease, i'd back it off and go to the next cylinder. When I did this and got to the last cylinder, I rechecked the rest of the cylinders, i had a cold/lukewarm exhaust pipe while the other three seemed pretty hot.
So, I tried screwing all the screws back in, and starting over. This time, instead of going in order of the cylinders (1234), I changed to 3241. This worked until I got to the last cylinder, and it's now the cold one. The screw didn't make a difference, so I tried opening up the throttle on just that cyl, and it got hot, but then cyl 2 was cool. so I tried opening up that throttle valve...and i got to frustrated to go on. It's like I'm chasing my tail!!!!!!!
What the hell is this? Am I going to have to take the stupid carbs off again to bench synch them and then restart this? I AM SO TIRED OF DEALING WITH STUPID CARBUREATORS AND LOOKING AT MY BIKE BEING APART FOR THE PAST FREAKING 1 1/2 - 2 MONTHS. I've had it with carb bikes. Fuel injection is the ONLY way to go.
AAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HH.
The whole time i was adjusting it, I can see how rich it's running on the left bank. The right bank looks okay, but it started getting to dark....so guess what...to be continued (again and again and again and again and again...till I pay someone to finish this damn thing).
Comment
Comment