Changing brands of oil

[angrypeppers]

Hey there!

I've had my 1979 GS1000E for a couple of weeks now, and it's time to change the oil and filter. Here's the rub. The PO only used BelRay semi-synthetic 10W-40. Bike doesn't burn or leak a drop. But, BelRay is kinda pricey: about $30/gallon here in Denver. I happily run Rotella in my F350, and would like to change to run Rotella in the bike too. Not the least because it's cheaper than BelRay, and is easier to find.

What concerns me is what, if anything, this will do to the seals in the engine. I don't want it to start sprouting leaks, but at the same time, I'd much rather run the Rotella. Anyone run in to this before? Am I being overly cautious? I know that I could switch for one change to see what happens, but that doesn't answer my question about potential engine leaks...

Thx!
Chris

[bwringer]

Switch away; you'll be fine.

I happily buy and use whatever brand of motorcycle oil strikes me that month. Many here are quite taken with Rotella, and it won't hurt your engine one bit.

[angrypeppers]

I'll try it and report results here in a few hundred miles...

Thx!
Chris

[angrypeppers]

Changed the oil last nite to full synthetic Rotella, 5W-40. Put in a new Suzuki filter too. Seems like it might have shifted a bit easier, and might be a little quieter, but that could be signs of "automatic smoooooooooth" too! No leaks overnight, but I'll keep checking.

Note to self: hose down the underside of the engine and the pipes before riding after an oil/filter change! I spilled some oil on the pipes, and thought I had cleaned all of it up. But the cloud of smoke this AM told me otherwise! Or is there a way to avoid getting oil on the pipes (short of removing them)?

Chris

[themess]

Consumer Reports has tested motor oils several times. In the 70sor 80s they found that synthetic oils were better than standard ones. More recently, they used a NYC taxi fleet, if I recall correctly. Different brands of oil were used, and I think that the cabs were run about 100,000 miles. At the end of the test the engines were torn down and the parts were miked by pros. (I don't remember what other tests were done.) All the oils had the latest API rating.

I remember 4 conclusions:

1) Expensive oils didn't perform better than cheap oils.

2) Synthethic oils weren't any better than regular oils.

3) No brand was better than any other.

4) Changing from one brand to another made no difference. Different refineries' additive packages might have been incompatible years ago, but that doesn't seem to be a problem any more.

They reconciled these results with the earlier findings by noting that oil technology had improved greatly in the 20 years since their earlier test. Their conclusion was that the least expensive oil of the proper weight and API designation should be used, and oil should be changed according to manufacturers' specifications based on how hard the car was used.

[koolaid_kid]

...1) Expensive oils didn't perform better than cheap oils.

2) Synthethic oils weren't any better than regular oils.

3) No brand was better than any other.

4) Changing from one brand to another made no difference....
...Their conclusion was that the least expensive oil of the proper weight and API designation should be used, and oil should be changed according to manufacturers' specifications based on how hard the car was used.

Thank goodness. I've been doing this for years, and with 5 vehicles, is the only way I can afford to change oil regularly.
BTW, check the Sunday paper for specials. For example, local Pep Boys and Advance Auto stores consistently advertise name brand oils by the case with rebates bringing down the price to $1.29-1.39 per quart.

[bwringer]

Wally World's house brand of oil is usually around a buck a quart. Not that I've ever been perverted enough to use it in my GS.

Wal*Mart oil has found its way into a few of our old beaters over the years, but the oil was the least of the worries with some of these heaps.

1, 2, 3, 4
Let's start an oil war!

:roll:

[redtires]

Different brands of oil were used, and I think that the cabs were run about 100,000 miles. At the end of the test the engines were torn down and the parts were miked by pros. (I don't remember what other tests were done.) All the oils had the latest API rating.

I remember 4 conclusions:

1) Expensive oils didn't perform better than cheap oils.

2) Synthethic oils weren't any better than regular oils.

3) No brand was better than any other.

4) Changing from one brand to another made no difference. Different refineries' additive packages might have been incompatible years ago, but that doesn't seem to be a problem any more.

They reconciled these results with the earlier findings by noting that oil technology had improved greatly in the 20 years since their earlier test. Their conclusion was that the least expensive oil of the proper weight and API designation should be used, and oil should be changed according to manufacturers' specifications based on how hard the car was used.[/quote]


This is an interesting post....considering that I just spent $40 on some Royal Purple! lol.... But I have read some good results from other posters on the "good" full syn oil, so we'll have to see what happens. I'm thinking that an important step in doing the swap is to do a good flush before the swap, and that's my plan, so I'll let you know. I would like to know if anyone can shed some light on the "energy conserving" oil???? I've read that this causes drag on the clutch...any input? Also, to change the subject a bit, does anyone else use a spray type engine degreaser for cleaning? I'd like to really clean up and get some more of the shine back....BUT....I'm looking for anyone who may have some advice or cautionary notes regarding the plug wires, wiring etc when using this. Hey thanks guys...I'm lovin GSR!

[jimcor]

Wally World's house brand of oil is usually around a buck a quart. Not that I've ever been perverted enough to use it in my GS.

Wal*Mart oil has found its way into a few of our old beaters over the years, but the oil was the least of the worries with some of these heaps.

1, 2, 3, 4
Let's start an oil war!

:roll:

Wally's SuperTech is actually some pretty good stuff. Depending on location it's either a SOPUS (Shell) or a Warren Performance Products oil.
Warren Performance Products also manufactures Sears Spectrum Oils.

SOPUS also manufactures Suzuki brand oils in the US.

[Arkaloid]

Keep in mind that in that test, most taxis are operated 24 hours a day. an easy life for oil. It is the cold operation, when the acids and moisture develop, such as overnight parking when the oil cools to room temp, that beats down an oil. Synthetics mainly protect and shear less during higher temps then regular 'Dino' oils.

[earlfor]

In reply to #1, my experience shows this false. The bike runs about 15 deg cooler with synthetic than it does with dino oil. The engine internals also are cleaner. (visually inspected on my last teardown)

#2. Synthetics withstand heat better and have a lower coefficient of friction. If they were no better than dino oils, there would be no point in developing them since they cost more to produce.

#3. I agree that overall, no brand is better than another, however, some applications/products are better than comparable products. so, yes it does matter what type of oil is used for a particular application.

#4 I believe most motor oils are compatible and can be mixed. There is only one manufacturers oil I have found that WILL gel if mixed with their competitors oils.

Earl





[QUOTE=themess;496196]
I remember 4 conclusions:

1) Expensive oils didn't perform better than cheap oils.

2) Synthethic oils weren't any better than regular oils.

3) No brand was better than any other.

4) Changing from one brand to another made no difference. Different refineries' additive packages might have been incompatible years ago, but that doesn't seem to be a problem any more.

[themess]

In reply to #1, my experience shows this false. The bike runs about 15 deg cooler with synthetic than it does with dino oil. The engine internals also are cleaner. (visually inspected on my last teardown)

#2. Synthetics withstand heat better and have a lower coefficient of friction. If they were no better than dino oils, there would be no point in developing them since they cost more to produce.

I don't dispute a word you write, Earl. CU tested in water-cooled engines, so unless the radiators were undersized, engine temperatures would have been the same with either type of oil. Air-cooled GS engines are different. I don't recall if fuel consumption was measured for the CU test, so lower friction might not have been found to have made a difference even if it did help. The CU conclusions might have been based only on engine wear. I'm not saying that engine wear is the only criterion for oil quality, nor am I saying that service in water-cooled engines that are almost never turned off is the best way to judge oil in air-cooled engines. But CU's results are useful, taken for what they are.

I used to run synthetic oil in my diesel cars. I found that the engines started easier, especially in sub-zero weather. I'm not aware of any othere difference.