Exhaust studs on 1978 GS 750E

[78GS750]

I pulled off the trashed 4 into 1 exhaust for replacement. 6 of the 8 header lock nuts came off fine after soaking them with PB for 2 days. The remaining 2 did not. Instead the studs came out cleanly from the head. Question how to "lock" the studs into the head when reinstalling them. Locktite, stake them, ??? I'll double nut the studs when reinstalling them, but is there something that can do/use to ensure they stay put ? The replacement exhaust will be on and off a couple more times while tinkering this poor beast back together and I don't want to strip the head stud threads in the head in the process. Ideas, suggestions, answers, links greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[RJ]

You can certainly use Loctite to keep the studs in the head but I wouldn't recommend it. If you break off the stud for whatever reason you will play hell trying to remove the part that is still in the head. I would chase the threads in the head CAREFULLY with a tap, or better yet a dedicated thread chaser (they don't cut like taps) after a good soak with penetrating oil. Next I would install new studs. New nuts with some anti-seize on the studs when the exhaust is reinstalled will finish things off just peachy. If you torque down the nuts to spec the studs won't back out when you remove the exhaust next time around.

[78GS750]

If you torque down the nuts to spec the studs won't back out when you remove the exhaust next time around.

Cool, thank you. I ordered a aftermarket manual, but the source seems to be sending it by Pony Express. Happen to know the torque # for the studs ?

[RJ]

I only have the specs for my 1100. I'm at work right now so don't have access to my manual.

[Jethro]

Funny, I was gonna bring up this topic tonight. After the 3rd time my exhaust bolt backed out on it's own, I am gonna install studs. I am thinking the same thing though, I'd like the studs to be fairly "hard mounted", so I can reef only on the nuts. The anti-seize I have currently with good socket cap bolts and washers aren't cutting it. They have loosened up a bunch, and I've lost one 3 times now. The gaskets were seated well and the bolts were torqued good. You sure some locktight isn't called for in this instance? What do the drag boys do? I can deal with drilling out a stud if I need to down the road, but melting an exhasut gasket seat 700 miles from home would really suck. Would blue locktight deal with the heat ok? I'm not going as far as JB Weld or something, but I was thinking of something...

[Jethro]

No more input on this one?

[Clone]

Use new studs, if you put anti-seize on them they won't bind to the head. You can use loctite, I don't know if the engine heat will be enough to melt it anyway. Use anti-seize on the nuts on the studs.
Since it is an aluminum head, you could check the condition of the threads of the holes the studs came out of, if they are damaged, you could chase the threads with a larger tap and use a thread insert before putting in the new studs.
Good job not breaking any studs off. =D>

[Baatfam]

What do the drag boys do?

Hardened steel allen head bolts...no locktight or anti-sieze....tightened until they feel "right"...no torque wrench.
Haven't had one get loose and they come out when I need them too....

Don't like stainless and aluminum without some kind of anti-sieze....
The aluminum will gall up on the stainless and tear up the threads...

Don't forget though...drag bikes aren't subjected to the long term heating and cooling a street bike is. And they don't sit out in the weather.

Bob T.

[Kcwiro]

Wow...somethign I can chime in on \\/

I have my handy Gs manual in my backpack here let me see *flips through pages*

I'll just list off what the clymer says..

flange nuts - 11-15 ft-lbs
bolts securing mufflers to the frame - 20-31 ft-lbs
clamps securing inboard pipes - 7-10 ft-lbs hope this helps

this is from clymer manual GS750 fours 1977-1982
hope this helps you:-D