Brakes in the rain, barely.

[Anonymous]

So, today I drove my 1150 in a heavy downpour (seattle winter, whodathunkit)for the first time. It wasn't raining that hard when I left work and went to a store. when started driving home from the store it really started raining hard, luckily I had my rain gear, but my feet got soaked. Anyways, after a few blocks my brakes basicly quit grabbing. I had to use all of my strength pulling on the brakes and the same was true for my back brack. I could get it to stop eventually but only after much straining and alot of distance that shouldn't have passed. I seriousely doubt if I could have locked the brakes if I had wanted to. I have some recently (2 month old) installed brake pads (metal sintered i think). My brake were OK before the downpour, maybe a little squishy but still pretty good.
Anyone ever have this happen to them? It sucks cause i need to ride it at least to work tomorrow before i can get to my car, then maybe it will be dryer and i'll see if they return back to their old ways. If that is the case is there something I'm suposed to be putting on the discs or something? Thanks
The Mookster

[Anonymous]

Metal pads are supposed to work better in the rain.

You said your brakes were a little squishy before the rain. They shouldn't be squishy. Make sure you have them bled properly. I would also make sure the brake lines are ok - no cracks or bulges. When bleading the brakes I always replace the fluid completely. Brake fluid absorbes water - after years of use it doesn't work properly.

[earlfor]

Re: Brakes in the rain, barely.

I get a lot of rain in south FL and have the same problem. Almost no brakes in rain unless I periodically apply them to clear the water film off the calipers. In traffic, I find that I hold the front brake (while riding) until I can feel it start to grab enough to slow me down and at that point, I release just enough pressure on the brake lever to ease off the braking. Kind of a pain in the butt to ride holding brake, but its better than needing some and not having any.

Earl

[quote="Mookie"]So, today I drove my 1150 in a heavy downpour (seattle winter, whodathunkit)for the first time. Anyways, after a few blocks my brakes basicly quit grabbing.

[Anonymous]

This morning the rain quit and I drove to work and the brakes are back to normal, which is good. My question then is : Is there some type of product that I can spray on the rotors that can say, disipate the water or just clean them off real good? It can't be possible that all bikes brake like that when they get wet, what do modern sportbikes have that mine doesn't? The holding the brakes idea will have to do for now but I don't like the idea of the people behind me not knowing when I'm actually going to be slowing.

[Anonymous]

Ok, one more time - then I'm done. If your brakes are not firm and positive before the rain - they will suck in the rain. If they were squishy before - I'd find out why. I've never had a problem with my 80 1100E's brakes in the rain. Yes, they don't work as well - but I can certainly lock them up if I need too.

[Anonymous]

You can buy a product that dries off bicycle rims. It is just some kind of fluid but I doubt it would last long on a bike. You would definately need to apply it before setting out in the rain. Ofcourse, it may make your brake linings wrothless so ask around and don't try it out in traffic the first time.

Also, you should get some brakeclean and hose off your discs, you should be able to lock up your brakes very easily when it is raining. Be careful doing this too, the last time I did it I washed all of the fork oil that was on the fork legs onto my rotor. To get it off I had to do about 40 emergency stops where I wouldn't let go until my front wheel started to skid.

Steve

[Anonymous]

OK, I'll try and find some brake cleaner on my way home tonite. hopefully that will help since I didn't use any when I changed the pads earlier.

PS-Swanny, when I said squishy I was meaning that as a very minor nigling. It could probably use some new brake fluid but I think it's more a case of needing some steel braided brake lines rather than air in the lines. Like I said it stops fine in the dry. thanks guys!

[Paul]

It can't be possible that all bikes brake like that when they get wet, what do modern sportbikes have that mine doesn't?

When disc brakes first came out in the mid/late '70s, I used to drill the rotors to improve wet braking performance. I used to work nights at my day job drilling discs. I used to charge about $15.00/disc.
It was a sort of 2/3/2/3 pattern, which also looked as if the holes were on a curve.
It improved wet weather braking, but it didn't cure the problem.
As time has gone on pads have improved, discs are drilled or slotted as standard. Also they are made out of material that works better in the wet. (cast iron etc instead of stainless steel)
Paul
GS1000S, GS1000(s)...

[Anonymous]

Hi ya all,
I know of 2 things that can cause the wet breaking problem with good dry braking.
New pads, I always scratch new pads with 220 grit sandpaper to break the surface of new pads. Also new rotors and drums "should" be scratch turned as factory machining is still too smooth. This leads into if the rotors have any glazing on the surfaces the pads will hydroplane across the rotors and not grab. I scratch my rotors with 320 grit each spring to make sure no rotor glazing builds up and you'll have good braking all the time.
(disclaimer, ha ha) This "assumes" the rest of you breaking system is in good working order. MC, bleeding, etc....
This is good preventive maint.
(another disclaimer), watch out, your brakes WILL lock up in the rain.
always break easy first and take it easy (mostly)