Engine case sealer recommendation

[Anonymous]

What would you receomend to seal between the two engine case halves? I thinking the blue Permatex.

[earlfor]

Re: Engine case sealer recommendation

A lot of the guys here recommend Yamabond (not sure about the spelling). I havent tried it though.

Earl

What would you receomend to seal between the two engine case halves? I thinking the blue Permatex.

[focus frenzy]

Yes, yamabond is great stuff perfect for assembling motorcycle engines. (that is what it was designed for) permatex grey also works very well, and may be the same as yamabond, another advatage of yamabond/permatex grey, is the color blends in with the color of cast aluminum.
yamabond makes a great gasket replacement, I had removed the side cover of my TT to repair a stripped oil filter cover bolt hole and needed a new gasket so I could ride the next day, the dealer didnt have a gasket and told me that I could make a gasket using yamabond.
I was scepticle but gave it a try, it workes perfectly still havnt put in a gasket and it dosnt leak 5 years later.

[moto_dan]

I use Yamabond 4.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, I found a number of references to Yamabond on the net when I did search for it. None negative.
Apparently they make a 4, 5, two versions of 6, and a 7.
Looks like 4 is one to use for the engine case application?

[focus frenzy]

I think it is yamabond 4 that I have used, great stuff

[Paul]

I use the Suzuki version called - ready for this - Suzukibond!, available from my local Suzuki dealer. It is a yellowy colour when you spill it (guess how I know that?), but when on a motor cannot be seen, any excess just wipe off.
I would guess that it is the same as Yammabond, I bet there is a Hondabond & a Kawabond as well!
It is expensive though it lasts a long time.
Paul
GS1000S, GS1000(s)....

[Anonymous]

Like everyone else, go with Yamabond. Stuff works great and its not a real standout colour.

[Anonymous]

I wonder what Harleybond might be useful for (hee hee).

[Paul]

Harley riders carry extra-large packs of loc-tite!
Paul
GS1000S

[Anonymous]

While we are on this subject. I have developed a leak in one spot on the front of my engine where the barrels meet the lower cases. I really dont want to take her apart yet. My friend told me that and old trick was to use a quality 2 part epoxy just in the area over the leak. Any comments suggestions warnings--anything. Has any one ever done this

[Paul]

I bought a GS1000 about 10 years ago that had a bad oil leak at the front joint between barrels & crankcases. The previous owner(s) had tried epoxy resin, silicon (instant gasket), aradite, Isopon resin. Nothing had worked, I lifted the barrels, cleaned all the s--t off, & rebuilt the engine. The hardest job was getting all the little bits off. Most of it came off in one or two big pieces because the oil film prevents the goo/glue/resin actually attaching to the metal of crankcase & barrels.
The best bit was that the engine was unmarked by corrosion!!
Paul
GS1000S, GS1000(s)...

[earlfor]

Yep Scotty, have a lot of experience with that sort of thing. :-)
J B Weld is a two part high temp epoxy filler, and will work just fine for that problem. There are a couple of things to consider. J B Weld normally takes about 6 hours to primary cure. Epoxies are absolutely intolerant of oil, or any greasy contamination. Not even a fingerprint is acceptable. The joint will have to be cleaned spotless and it cannot weep any oil for at least 6 hours while the epoxy is curing. Any oil that weeps after the compound is applied will form a microscopic barrier between the surface of the metal and the epoxy and it will not seal. The characteristics of epoxies in general can be modified by the ratio of catalyst to base. J B Weld is a 1:1 mix. That yields a very hard/brittle filler. With epoxies, INCREASING the amount of catalyst will produce a filler that is softer and more flexible. With engine vibration, an extremely hard filler would be susceptable to developing cracks. I would mix the J B Weld in the ratio of 2 parts of catalyst to 1 part of base so as to have a filler that is more flexible and less prone to cracking. For a neat "patch", I usually mask off the seam line and remove the tape before the filler has started to set. You can clip a shop light to shine on the repair and the heat will hasten then curing process.
You only want the filler surface to be slightly warm...not hot.
Acetone will usually draw excess oil out of a gasket edge if that is needed. Just prior to applying the filler, I scrub the area with comet cleanser and water to remove any acetone or other residue, then rinse with clean water and dry the surface with a heat gun or hair dryer.

Earl

While we are on this subject. I have developed a leak in one spot on the front of my engine where the barrels meet the lower cases. I really dont want to take her apart yet. My friend told me that and old trick was to use a quality 2 part epoxy just in the area over the leak. Any comments suggestions warnings--anything. Has any one ever done this

[Pillage]

I wonder what Harleybond might be useful for (hee hee).

I don't know about Harleybond but a Harleyblond... now that's another story! :twisted:

[Anonymous]

I wonder what Harleybond might be useful for (hee hee).

I don't know about Harleybond but a Harleyblond... now that's another story! :twisted:

Especially scantily clad Harleyblond.... woohoo 8)