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I started my bike up today for the first time since 1993! Actually I started it last night, but it would only run on two cylinders. So I took the carbs back out and fixed a couple of things.
I would not have attempted the carb cleanup without the support of the people of GSResources. I parked the bike long ago when the #2 cylinder quit. No way was I going to take the carbs apart. But after recently searching through the old posts, I realized mere mortals could clean carbs. I did have a couple of problems along the way that were straightened out by forum members within minutes.
I had another problem this morning that I don’t think I’ve heard of. When I opened the carbs back up. I was measuring the float actuation point when I noticed one of the floats was springy and the other thee felt solid. Turns out the needle valve is not one piece like I thought. The pin on the end is spring loaded, but three of mine were frozen. If I hadn’t had one good one, I’d have never known.
It runs a little rough but I have to sync the carbs. If I can find the adapters that is. The forks will be in the shop for another week or so, but I have plenty of other things that need attention.
Why won't this bike run?
After cleaning
Unrelated, but when I bought a new battery (Sears -$39.95) I had to deal with the battery low fluid warning light issue. I remembered reading about one member re-using his old sensor. So I pulled it out and put it into the #3 cell in place of the cap. Problem was that it hit the internal plates before it was seated. I decided to cut off about ¼ inch from the bottom of the sensor. It seems to have a lead rod running all the way to the top so there was plenty of length. I left the cap off too for more clearance. Works great, no light.
I would not have attempted the carb cleanup without the support of the people of GSResources. I parked the bike long ago when the #2 cylinder quit. No way was I going to take the carbs apart. But after recently searching through the old posts, I realized mere mortals could clean carbs. I did have a couple of problems along the way that were straightened out by forum members within minutes.
I had another problem this morning that I don’t think I’ve heard of. When I opened the carbs back up. I was measuring the float actuation point when I noticed one of the floats was springy and the other thee felt solid. Turns out the needle valve is not one piece like I thought. The pin on the end is spring loaded, but three of mine were frozen. If I hadn’t had one good one, I’d have never known.
It runs a little rough but I have to sync the carbs. If I can find the adapters that is. The forks will be in the shop for another week or so, but I have plenty of other things that need attention.
Why won't this bike run?
After cleaning
Unrelated, but when I bought a new battery (Sears -$39.95) I had to deal with the battery low fluid warning light issue. I remembered reading about one member re-using his old sensor. So I pulled it out and put it into the #3 cell in place of the cap. Problem was that it hit the internal plates before it was seated. I decided to cut off about ¼ inch from the bottom of the sensor. It seems to have a lead rod running all the way to the top so there was plenty of length. I left the cap off too for more clearance. Works great, no light.
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