Is it Carb?

[usin13]

Not harsh at all

No problem. Sorry if I came across a bit harsh. It wasn't my intent.

I didn't take it that way at all, and did not mean for my comment to come out that way (that's why I threw in the smiley). The questions you asked, are what I probably should have done, but all my little mind kept saying was "gas leak, gas leak, gas leak". I had tunnel vision and it was pointing me directly at stopping that leak. I was hopng that in doing so it would solve my other problems with 1 and 4.
I do appreciate the questions to narrow down my problem and will do those things next. And definitely keep sending the questions and I will try my best to give valid answers (of course I may use the word thingy or doo hicky to describe something).

[usin13]

so far so good

I got it all back together. I noticed something I didn't realize before, the boots on the airbox were not actually in the air box. The tube portion was in, but the rigid ring was still on the outside of the airbox. I heated the boots up in front of a halogen worklight I had and got them in the airbox much better than they were, nice and snug now.
Started the bike up and to my surprise, I don't think I messed anything up ;-) Out of curiosity, I pulled the 1 and 4 plugs while it was running and there was no change with 4, but 1 killed the bike - PROGRESS!!!
So, once my wife gets home from work tonight I will take it for a drive and then adjust the air screw and see how it goes.

I'll keep you posted.

One other quick question, I don't have the 4 hoses on the bottome of the carbs, should I put them back on?

[usin13]

Decelerating

Seemed weird when I was decelerating. The rpm's were staying real high. The rpm's would come down, so it wasn't like when my intake o rings went bad and it would always be high. So I have no idea what's going on with that.
Then, when I was adjusting the air screws in my garage, oil started coming out of where my tach cable is connected. So, I took it around the block a couple of times, thinking maybe I got it too hot. It seems okay, and I'm done with it for the night, but now I'm worried that between the high rpm's and the oil leak, I'm worse off then when I started.

[usin13]

Bad news

I decided that I didn't trust that it wasn't an intake leak again, so I sprayed the intake boots with wd-40 and sure enought, the rpm's went up again. I took off the tank, airbox, carbs, then boots as I though my o rings must have went bad. Turns out the intake boots are grooved where the o rings are, and it doesn't look like it was made cleanly, so I assume, it isn't factory that way.

Should they have a groove where the o ring goes? If so, can anyone show me a picture of it without the o ring on?

If I'm correct and they are bad, I unfortunately think I'm done with riding for the season.

I don't know why this appeared to be fine until I put these carbs back on.

Let me know if there any hope.

Thanks.

[ptm]

Yes, there is a groove that the o-ring sits in. Often the o-ring gets very hard and flat from the heat and it's hard to tell if there's a groove or not. All the old crusty o-ring needs to be cleaned out before putting in the new ones. There's a pic in this thread http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ad.php?t=90572 and it also has a link to Brian Wringer's site where he has more pics of the process of replacing the o-rings. His is on the 850, but the engines are almost identical.

It sounds like you're getting close. Don't give up hope... It's a sweet running bike when it's sorted - it will be worth it.

[Cyg]

usin your only two hours away. Once I get my main ride together, I can swing by your shop and help you out. Most likely would be sometime next week tho.

My phone is 253-3280. call me I live in wittenberg.

[rustybronco]

I sure would like some pictures. In reality, I could build one like yours before I could buy one. $10 here or there is a lot easier than $50 at once.

as promised...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=496967#post496967

[usin13]

Progress

Cyg, I definitely appreciate the offer. Maybe we can coordinate some time for the week of labor day. In laws will be around this coming weekend, but I have the entire week of labor day off (Vacation).

I put the intake boots and o rings back on with high temp grease, and no intake leaks. The only problem is that it still is keeping the high rpms when I decelerate, not all the time, just intermittently. I noticed if I give a quick blip of the throttle the rpm's go right back down. The rpm's don't jump up, they just stay at whatever the highest they were when I let go of the throttle. The throttle cable doesn't seem to be sticking.

What could it be?

[usin13]

Think it's ok

I think I figured it out. The choke was just a little bit on. I pushed down more firmly on the lever and it stopped doing it. I don't know if it has something to do with the cleaning and so the choke is working better now or what, but now it's working fine if I push firmly on the choke lever.

As for power, I think two things. The first is that the cleaning helped quite a bit. Second, is I changed the way I drove it. I was treating it like past cars I had and shifting at about 3000 rpm. Holding off shifting a little longer has also made quite a diffference.

Also, no more gas leak. So my original problem is taken care of.

I now have the slight oil leak by my tach, but I can live with that for a while. (good winter project)

RustyBronco, that's a heck of a sync tool. It might just be the way I go when I sync them.

Thanks again guys for all the help.