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    #1

    ignition pointsproblem

    I have a 78 GS1000 with points & for the second time the left hand (#1&4) has broken the point off of the arm where it the point is bonded to the arm. In tsaying this, I mean the entire assembly has broken away, not just the contact piece breaking off of the arm (there is a hole where the material is supposed to be). I first found this problem while troubleshooting the original time it occured. I basically chalked it up to age of the material. When I replaced the old with the new one I gapped it to .4 MM. Onmy way home from work today, I noticed an enormace lack of power. Upon arrival home I checked to see if the contacts had possibly moved to widen the gap but found that the same problem had occurred again. Does anyone have any insight on this problem as I am not sure other than the pounts being too close what it could be.
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    #2
    bondo?

    the points are held in by screws not bondo. I would check there first. All that vibration is going too work any thing loose eventually. Not the screws but bondo it would. The contact is riveted on too the post. http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic~dept_id~1002278.asp
    Last edited by Guest; 08-28-2006, 10:11 PM.

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      #3
      Sorry, I didn't explain well enough. The contact & the portion of the arm it is attached to broke away on the tip of the assembly. Not the entire piont assembly itself.

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        #4
        That's pretty unusual, there is very little force on that part of the contact arm. You sure there is nothing rattling around in there that it could hit? A loose wire, something on the inside of the cover? Don't mean to insult you, but it's damn near impossible to break a contact point arm there without something jamming it. Especially twice. The only force on it when closing is the spring.

        If something got in the way of it opening, then the force of the cam forcing it open could bend or break it.

        Any scratches or signs of overheating, maybe?

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          #5
          Just went out & had another look. Also took the time to crank over the engine with the cover off. I couldn't see anything that would get in the way of the points. I did notice that the right side points (#2&3) were too close on their adjustment, so I'm wondering if that along with the possibility of the timing being off, (I'm not for sure, but if the points weren't set right when I did the timing) it could through things off just enough?

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            #6
            Also not sure if it makes a difference, but they both broke at the same point on the arm. Right at the impression where the contact sits in the arm. Is it possible that there was a flaw in the new set of points that would allow it to happen? The old set according to my guesstimation had been in there for some time. The new one was OEM right from Suzuki. It had ND stamped into the body of the points which I am guessing that indicates Nippon Denso.

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              #7
              I have had alot of bikes over the years, I havent heard of an arm breaking on one of them. There isnt that much too movement going in there except the spinning shaft. I would guess it too be faulty and take them back if you can. two screws adjust the 1/4 too line up the contacts. .0012ths i think or .0014.
              Then two screws on the housing lineup the timeing marks too the f or t. Same with the 2/3 on the other side. Rule of thumb is get your gap set first. Then play with your timing. Its easy too confuse trying too get your gap after you set your lines.

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                #8
                I'm familliar with the process of how to set the timing (as described here on GSR). I'm not sure if I just set the points wrong when I did them origionally or they somehow managed to move over time which dosn't make sense to me. Tommorow I will be making a trip back to Suzuki for a new set of points (I got lucky, they have 6 more on the shelf). I also noticed that the pic in the Suzuki book I have shows them up higher than I have them on the bike itself. Although I'm not sure if they can be moved as much as it looks (I'm using the two dimples to the left of where the points sit as a reference point) but I will try & see if it is possible. Thanks for the help if you have anymore thoughts please let them flow. I have owned/worked on vehicles that have had points in the past & this it a stumper for me.

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                  #9
                  One set breaking could be considered an anomaly. A second set breaking should be considered a trend.
                  As mentioned before, the only force acting on the points is the spring (to close the points, and the cam (to open the points).
                  It sounds like there is a third force acting on the points.
                  How long does it take for the points to break? Are there signs of something hitting it (shiny spots, for example) ?
                  What about running it without the points cover installed for observation?

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