Hey Electrical Gurus!!

[Jethro]

So I have been having trouble with the connectors off my r/r to the stator. Oddly enough, the outputs are correct, a charging system test shows things are hunky dory. However, the white with a red stripe wire off my reg/rec is melting at the connection to the stator. I have a new stator and r/r from Ricks Electrics here, but I don't wanna install it if there is a chance I could damage it. Any ideas as to what else to check? Again, the output is good, I'm having trouble understanding why this connector is getting scorched? Any ideas as what else to check? Main ground is good, and the r/r is wired direct to the battery (which is a brand new AGM).

[jm_foote]

Melting connectors suggests high current. Possibly a diode fried in your current r/r. Power from your stator would be a/c. If hooked up to your battery (a capacitor) without a diode to rectify the power, a direct short would cause issues. If this is the problem, it may damage your battery as well as melting other wires between the stator and your battery. If all your diodes are fine, the only other possibly cause I can think of would be a ground short somewhere.

[flyingace]

Just a guess, but if the readings from the stator are OK, the problem must be with the current R/R. Maybe a diode is grounded or something. Have you tested the diodes on the R/R?

[Boondocks]

If there is no problem except the wire melting at the connector, have you considered that the problem is the connector itself? This is the primary symptom of an oxidized connector.

I would cut off the connector and solder the wires, or at least make a new connection with fresh crimp terminals and electrical grease to prevent oxidation.

[Jethro]

Just a guess, but if the readings from the stator are OK, the problem must be with the current R/R. Maybe a diode is grounded or something. Have you tested the diodes on the R/R?

I haven't tested the stator independent of the charging system becasue the bike is charging 13.5 at idle and 14.5 at 5000 rpm and this is within spec I think? I guess I am going to test just the stator tonight.

If there is no problem except the wire melting at the connector, have you considered that the problem is the connector itself? This is the primary symptom of an oxidized connector.

I would cut off the connector and solder the wires, or at least make a new connection with fresh crimp terminals and electrical grease to prevent oxidation.

Brand new connector, second one in a month actually. Dielectric grease is a friend of mine always and connections are usually soldered, but I like to keep the r/r on bullet connecters because I usually travel on the really long trips with a spare stator, gasket and r/r. An hour on the side of the road and I can have those changed with bullet connectors. I'll solder the new stator and r/r in, as it will be for longevity.

Checking again, it's the blue/white wire coming from the stator that is melted (my bad). The red/white is fine. My main question is if anyone thinks I am fry gonna the new hardware (coming in tomorrow)? The wire is between the stator and the r/r- say there is a short up in the headlight bucket or deep in the harness, that wouldn't fry the blue/white wire here- or can it?

[Jethro]

Oh, and I have never had luck testing an r/r for some reason. Even brand new ones, I've always gotten nonsense readings- but I am useless around a multi-meter. Electrical stuff is my downfall. I can replace a crank, but don't ask me to test a r/r...

[flyingace]

I just learned this because I just replaced my stator and didn't want to order another one in a week.

There should be a 'DIODE' testing function on the meter. Hook up any two R/R leads (from the stator) and take a reading. There should either be infinite resistance or a small amount of resistance. Reverse the leads and it should read the other way. In other words, each set of R/R leads should be open (infinite resistance) in one direction and closed (very low resistance) in the other. Do this for all three combiations.

[Jethro]

I just learned this because I just replaced my stator and didn't want to order another one in a week.

There should be a 'DIODE' testing function on the meter. Hook up any two R/R leads (from the stator) and take a reading. There should either be infinite resistance or a small amount of resistance. Reverse the leads and it should read the other way. In other words, each set of R/R leads should be open (infinite resistance) in one direction and closed (very low resistance) in the other. Do this for all three combiations.

I don't have a setting called "Diode," it's a good $50 Craftsman tester that is mulit-ranging and from left the settings are: OFF, VDC, VAC, OHMS, CAP, FARENHEIGHT, CELCIUS, FREQ % DUTY, UA (sort of, it's a Greek symbol), MA, A AC/DC, OFF. There are a bunch of buttons up top too- a speaker function, range, data hold and relative. I got too funky a meter... I should have dumbed it down to my size...

[Baatfam]

It probably won't say "Diode"...and it's often one of the Ohm settings...it will have a diode symbol....should look something like this:



HTH,
Bob T.

[koolaid_kid]

Just a note: UA is for microAmps, MA is for MilliAmps, and A is for Amps.
Won't help with your current (no pun intended) problem, but may in the future.

[Jethro]

Thanks guys. This proves my r/r is fried. Wonder how long it's been like that, and why is my bike still charging ok? Too high a current on one leg, none on another?

Oh well. New r/r and stator coming tomorrow. F this noise, I'll just replace it all.

[Boondocks]

I'd check the disconnected stator for equal voltages at 5,000 RPM (80VAC OEM). If one leg has a short, it may be putting out a lower voltage at a higher current.

If the stator checks out, I'd still say it's likely a bad connection at the connector even though it has been replaced. The resistance heat of a bad connection is what causes the wire to melt at the connector. If the connection were good and there was another fault causing overheating, the wire would overheat along its whole path, not just at the connector.

[wizard]

You corrected yourself and said that the blue/white wire is the one frying. Isn't that the U-turn wire that used to go to the headlight switch? If so, and if everything else checks out, just bypass it. It could be shorted to ground.

[flyingace]

I don't have a setting called "Diode," it's a good $50 Craftsman tester that is mulit-ranging and from left the settings are: OFF, VDC, VAC, OHMS, CAP, FARENHEIGHT, CELCIUS, FREQ % DUTY, UA (sort of, it's a Greek symbol), MA, A AC/DC, OFF. There are a bunch of buttons up top too- a speaker function, range, data hold and relative. I got too funky a meter... I should have dumbed it down to my size...

WHoa, there is a lot of stuff on there - they may come in handy one day tho.

I had an old analog meter from Radio Shack that wasn't worth sh*t. I went to Sears and paid $10 for a digital one that is acurate and easy to use. I have a DIODE function, but I think you can use the lowest level OHM function for the same purpose.

[Jethro]

I do have the diode setting. I just didn't realize that's what it was. I thought it was a speaker icon, kinda looks like that- this thing has alarms and noise settings. I'll try the stator test on VAC, but the r/r is fried for sure. I tested another one I had lying around and got normal readings except for the red lead- blank. So that one is toast as well.

This brings another question, I bought a used r/r off a member, but it's not Suzuki OEM. How do I know what leads are for where and how to test it? From left to right the colors are yellow, red, yellow, black, yellow. WTF?