Hey Electrical Gurus!!

[Jethro]

On my old 81 1100e r/r all leads test within spec except for black/white to red. I get no reading there. All other r/r's get nothing.

[Arkaloid]

My digital VOM wouldnt register either when I checked mine. And I had the Suzi manual right in front of me to make double sure I was checking it right. Analogue meter worked fine...go figure..

I would also seriously consider removing those bullit connectors and hard-wiring it direct. it is not that hard and make a world of difference.

[Jethro]

I just checked my stator, it's registering way over 80 volts, one leg was at 109 volts. When they go bad, is that what happens? They make more than normal voltage? The other two legs were about 90 volts.

[flyingace]

Have you ever ran diagnostic tests on an r/r? Has anyone? I now have 4 r/r's infront of me, all were in perfectly operable bikes (mine included, but had a melted connector), one is BRAND new today, and I can't get any kind of reading off any of them that is in spec with the manuals I have. I wanna ride tomorrow, but don't wanna put this gear in my bike if it's not the problem.

I'm clear that I have a diode setting, and I have the range set right for what the manual says, X1ohms. But I am stumped to believe that I can't get a single reading to come up on the new r/r especially. The only one that tests normal at all is the one I had on my 81 1100 which I thought was really toast.

Please help!! Anyone!!

That is strange. I wonder if the new R/Rs are even similar enough to the old ones that the same test applies. Maybe the circuitry is not even close. Maybe call Electrex and find out? My R/R looks original and it tests out just like the manual sez.

I would consider just putting the new R/R on and doing a standard voltage test at the battery. If you have good charging voltage, I think you're OK. Just IMO of course.

[Jethro]

That is strange. I wonder if the new R/Rs are even similar enough to the old ones that the same test applies. Maybe the circuitry is not even close. Maybe call Electrex and find out? My R/R looks original and it tests out just like the manual sez.

I would consider just putting the new R/R on and doing a standard voltage test at the battery. If you have good charging voltage, I think you're OK. Just IMO of course.

So the stator test is ok, a higher voltage than 80 is ok, even if one leg is 109, the others 90? I'm just freaked out a little becasue the basic charging system check was ok, I just had a re-occuring melted connector.

[Jethro]

The continutity checked out ok, 1.4 ohms on all legs. So I'm guessing my stator is ok.

[flyingace]

So the stator test is ok, a higher voltage than 80 is ok, even if one leg is 109, the others 90? I'm just freaked out a little becasue the basic charging system check was ok, I just had a re-occuring melted connector.

Is the connection with the 109 volts the one that is melting the R/R lead? That might tell you something- like 109 volts is too much.

[Jethro]

Actually, I just tested again, and they all showed between 80-90 volts. I think it's fine. The further contiunity test in the Stator Papers looked ok as well. Guess I'll install the new r/r and see if the thing blows up. What's another $90 anyway? ](*,) ](*,)

[flyingace]

Actually, I just tested again, and they all showed between 80-90 volts. I think it's fine. The further contiunity test in the Stator Papers looked ok as well. Guess I'll install the new r/r and see if the thing blows up. What's another $90 anyway? ](*,) ](*,)

Better than going insane!

[Jethro]

Better than going insane!

Oh, this is still driving me insane...:shock: \\/ 8-[

[wizard]

I hate to be the one to ask the obvious question. Is the battery in your meter any good?

[Jethro]

Well, it sure tests out everything else just perfect. The batteries are quite new.

I went ahead and installed the new r/r. A few minutes in the headlight cowl found a short between two wires associated with the horn and the turn signals. Fixed that and I fired it up. The charging is fine (like before) and the stator outputs wires weren't hot at all where I connected them to the r/r. I'll go for a ride tomorrow and check the leads periodically through the day.

On another note- anyone wanna buy a completely brand new Ricks Electrics stator??

[Baatfam]

Glad to hear you found the problem.....

This one thing bothered me all night until I had to go look at my meter...

I'm clear that I have a diode setting, and I have the range set right for what the manual says, X1ohms.

.....for my diode check to work on my meter, the range has to be set at 2K ohms....

Unless yours is auto ranging....

Just a thought.

Bob

[Baatfam]

On another note- anyone wanna buy a completely brand new Ricks Electrics stator??

Will it fit an '82 1100E?

[Jethro]

My meter is auto ranging, it just has an ohms setting. I finally found my manual last night, I know the meter is working, and I know I'm using it right. But I can't get a proper reading from my last r/r or the brandy new one??

Chores done, heading out for a test ride...

Will it fit an '82 1100E?

Almost 100% positive. It just came to me from Ricks in NH on Friday, I paid $140 for it, they don't charge shipping, so I'd take the bath on the shipping for my failure to check that, but you can get the same deal from them, FYI.

I don't mind another stator in backstock. I'll put it with the pile of new gaskets and cables I have.