Urgent Help needed

[Joe Nardy]

I am offically the biggest idiot on this forum!!!!

I was drilling out the right side lower engine mount bolt 'cause it was locked solid and no amount of impact-driver, etc., was moving it one iota. So I'm drilling away and thinking, this is going a little too dee....what's that OIL NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can imagine the rest of the language. plus the freaking enigine mount nut is still stuck. I don't phucking believe I was so phucking stupid!

HELP!!!!!

Okay, so why were you drilling it out? I understand that it wasn't moving but what harm was it causing? There's an acronym in the tech field, DFWAWM....................Don't Phark With A Working Machine!

Unless you were planning on pulling the engine you'd have been much better off with a frozen nut than with a hole in your crankcase.................

Good luck,
Joe

[Plasterdog]

Okay, so why were you drilling it out? I understand that it wasn't moving but what harm was it causing? There's an acronym in the tech field, DFWAWM....................Don't Phark With A Working Machine!

Unless you were planning on pulling the engine you'd have been much better off with a frozen nut than with a hole in your crankcase.................

Good luck,
Joe

I was trying to fit some case guards I'd bought on Evilbay. Otherwise I'd have never know it was frozen.

[rosco15]

I'm thinking pull the motor and weld up the hole.

[chiphead]

That really really really sucks.
It's a crying shame too because it looks like you were ontrack for getting that thing out.

[Planecrazy]

Steve,

I have a product called HTS-2000 on hand, which might be perfect for this repair. Check out http://www.aluminumrepair.com for info and a video on how this stuff can be used in situations where conventional welding or heliarc don't work.

Assuming we can get the proper heat to the area in question we should be able to fill the hole and re-tap for the bolt. You WILL have to get the rest of the old bolt out in order for this stuff to work properly, but I suspect you can grind out the rest with a dremel once we've determined we can get heat to the area that needs it without damage to the surrounding area.

Let me know ... if need be I may have time this weekend to get you back on the road in time for the trip... This would be a more permanent repair than JB weld, although I've heard plenty of amazing stories about that stuff in a pinch... One other "cold weld" alternative would be the "roll" stuff you kneed between your fingers and press into place before it hardens. That stuff is pretty useful as well, and is sold by several manufacturers under differing names.

Regards,

[jpaul]

Nut number 23 is the upper engine mount. The nut (apart from me) in question is 24, bolt 22. Dropping the oil pan is not going to get me closer, it's definately the lower half of the crankcase.

Anyone got a spare lying around, per chance????

Okay, I was talking about the same nut. I was looking at the 1980 diagram; same parts, different numbering. The front corner of the oil pan is less than 3 inches from the hole you made. I just pulled the pan off my engine to have a look. Any metal chips from the hole would have an easy path to the pickup for the oil pump.

I would pull the oil pan just to be sure I got any metal chips out of there. If you pull the oil pump too, you can get at the hole from the inside. Drill out the hole from the outside enough to fit a small screw into it install the screw from the inside, with some JB Weld on the screw. The gasket for the oil pan is $8. Cheap price to be sure you keep metal shavings from getting in the pump.

[Nerobro]

wow dude. Though it's going to come as a "no duh" for you at this point. when drilling out a bolt, you MUST do it on center, and concentric to the screw. Though this is also a situation where I would have broken out the grinding wheel instead of trying to drill it out.

Defintely talk to planecrazy, that aluminum brazing rod he has would be ideal for this. JB weld isn't the best for this. Glues don't necessarily have the same expantion rate as the aluminum on the case. The aluminum brazing rod will work ;-)

And if you feel to bad.. you're talking to the kid who dropped two snap rings into the crankcase of his bike. one into the hole where the primary is. EEP...

[Plasterdog]

Planecrazy, I'll call later/tomorrow -busy day today, three shoots over at NU-.

Thanks to all for your suggestions. My plan is to pull the motor -there is no easy way of getting at the area (maybe easier when the pipes are off)- and then strip it down, plug the hole from the inside, hopefully solve that weird rattle/ticking sound that I've had for a while, and rebuild.

This was definitely not my weekend for corrosion and frozen bolts. I also tried replacing the faucet in our second bathroom and in the process of trying to get the corroded nuts off cracked the bowl around the faucet. I'm not usually this klutzy.

"The bells, the bells, master, the bells..." Do they make ride bells for houses too?

[Baatfam]

I'm thinking pull the motor and weld up the hole.

I have to agree with Rosco....pull it/weld it.

Bob T.

[BadBillyB]

When using the factory bolt in this mounting location, with the flat washer on it, when completely tightened down, it misses going into the side of the engine cases by about .040" .....If you leave the flat washer off the bolt it will put a mark in the case when tightened. It's that close. It should be fairly simple to make a "pressure patch" that will seal the hole when the bolt is tightened. Like maybe a tire patch stuck to a piece of thin stainless. Any pressure at all will keep it from leaking. Try wedging a tapered chisel between the end of the bolt and the engine case (to hold it still) and grind away all of the bolt that is still remaining in the aluminum mounting boss. This will allow the tear drop shaped nut and the remaining bolt piece to come out of the bottom. That part of the engine case is very thin so if you use a pressure patch, you would want to first install the bolt, tighten it down all the way and then measure the clearance between the end of the bolt and the case. Make the patch just slightly thicker. If you decide to repair it another way, make sure you are aware of the clearance between the end of the bolt and the case.......BadBillyB

[Plasterdog]

Steve,

I have a product called HTS-2000 on hand, which might be perfect for this repair. Check out http://www.aluminumrepair.com for info and a video on how this stuff can be used in situations where conventional welding or heliarc don't work.

Dang, that stuff looks good!

[first timer]

you don't need to pull the motor to pull the oil pan. you will need to pull the exhaust pipes off, AND BE FORWARNED THAT THE HEADER BOLTS COULD BE SIEZED AS WELL. so if you do pull the exhaust bolts. use lots of pb blaster penatrating oil and heat. get your self a propane torch and get those exhaust bolts nice and toasty then spray em with some pb blaster then heat them up again. next try to loosen them while they are hot, do not force or muscle them, if they don't budge or they move just a little try tighening them up a little bit, then spray with more oil then try loosening them then tighten, you get the idea, just keep working each bolt back and forth loosening it up alittle bit more each time and keep using oil. just rember to move the torch around and not hold it in one place. also use a 6pt socket to garentee the bolt doesn't get striped.

after you get the pipes off, you can pretty easialy remove the oil pan while the bike is up right, but if you must you could probly lay the bike over on it's side, use some old tires to keep the motor from contacting the pavment. make sure to pull your gas tank off as well. then you should have a easier time getting at the oil pan. Just rember 6pt socket penatrating oil and time are your friends.

-ryan

[Planecrazy]

VERY GOOD ADVICE, Ryan, regardless of whether Steve pulls the motor or just removes parts to make the repair area accessable.

I'll be around, Steve, so call when you get the chance and we'll get your boo-boo fixed...

Regards,

[Plasterdog]

VERY GOOD ADVICE, Ryan, regardless of whether Steve pulls the motor or just removes parts to make the repair area accessable.

I'll be around, Steve, so call when you get the chance and we'll get your boo-boo fixed...

Regards,

Thanks Ryan. But as far as I can work out it's the lower crankcase not the oil pan.

Steve, I'm thinking the least I can do is take the pipes off and re-assess this situation.

[Planecrazy]

Thanks Ryan. But as far as I can work out it's the lower crankcase not the oil pan.

Steve, I'm thinking the least I can do is take the pipes off and re-assess this situation.

Even as a "stop-gap" measure (so you can ride Galena) we could simply seal the hole and stop the oil leak ... then you can fix it permanently over the winter. If we wanted to get slightly fancier we could use the HTS-2000 (or perhaps JB Weld) to not only seal the leak, but to mount a stud sticking out that would allow you to still attach the motor mount bracket and keep the engine stabilized ... then twist out the stud when you're ready to fix it permanently and properly...

Just a few ideas... before you go to the trouble of pulling pipes/etc. see if any of the above would work and let me know.

Regards,