Urgent Help needed

[first timer]

i thought i read some post that said there was a good possablity that you could access the hole from the oil pan area especially if you removed the oil pump. i haven't checked the diagrams yet so i can't verify that.

your photos look like the oil pan sits below the hole, so maybe you will have a striaght shot form the inside out. if you use the brazen stuff you are going to want to make sure you don't drip any of that stuff into the inside and if you can get to it from the inside you can put a temperary plate on the inside to help the brazen pool inside the hole and not run into the inside of the motor.

-ryan

[jonr]

Plasterdog,

If you don't end up filling in the hole with new material, may I suggest that you remove the remaining mount bolt, heli-coil the hole, and then put in a two-part solution.

To plug the hole to the crankcase, squeeze in some JB weld back where the hole opens into the crankcase, Next insert a small set screw (usually tapered on one end and has the recessed hex head) all the way as far back as it will go in - plugging up the hole. Allow to sit for a few days. Then replace a slight shorter version of the motor-mount bolt in the remaining heli-coil threads.

Notice the attached diagram.

In the past, I have used PB blaster a cold chisel to chunk-out threaded remains. As metioned earlier a bit of heat helps too, but I would be nervous about that since you have an opening to the crankcase right there.

[Plasterdog]

Even as a "stop-gap" measure (so you can ride Galena) we could simply seal the hole and stop the oil leak ... then you can fix it permanently over the winter. If we wanted to get slightly fancier we could use the HTS-2000 (or perhaps JB Weld) to not only seal the leak, but to mount a stud sticking out that would allow you to still attach the motor mount bracket and keep the engine stabilized ... then twist out the stud when you're ready to fix it permanently and properly...

Just a few ideas... before you go to the trouble of pulling pipes/etc. see if any of the above would work and let me know.

Regards,

The only way to access the tear drop nut (easily, now) is to take the pipes off. Luckily (famous last words) I know the header bolts for the pipes are not frozen, I check them every couple of hundred miles or so, as a pair of them rattled out on me a while back. I'm thinking along the same lines, as in do a temp repair (something like BadBillyB suggested) and then have something to do on those long winter nights/weekends.

Also FYI I have indentified the parts on the photos which may clarify things, or not. :-D

Steve, what's your availability this weekend?

[Planecrazy]

Steve, what's your availability this weekend?

As far as I know I "am." Now having said that, make your request SOON so I can clear it with the wife...

Regards,

[Plasterdog]

Plasterdog,

If you don't end up filling in the hole with new material, may I suggest that you remove the remaining mount bolt, heli-coil the hole, and then put in a two-part solution.

To plug the hole to the crankcase, squeeze in some JB weld back where the hole opens into the crankcase, Next insert a small set screw (usually tapered on one end and has the recessed hex head) all the way as far back as it will go in - plugging up the hole. Allow to sit for a few days. Then replace a slight shorter version of the motor-mount bolt in the remaining heli-coil threads.

Notice the attached diagram.

In the past, I have used PB blaster a cold chisel to chunk-out threaded remains. As metioned earlier a bit of heat helps too, but I would be nervous about that since you have an opening to the crankcase right there.

Thanks Jon. That would work except I think the reason this happened in the first place is that the drill was slightly off center at the start, so it's not necessarily a straight shot, like your diagram (nicely done BTW). Once I have the pipes off and the nut/remains of bolt out, I'll be in a better position to see what I can do. And that probably will not happen 'till the weekend due to work constraints.

[Plasterdog]

As far as I know I "am." Now having said that, make your request SOON so I can clear it with the wife...

Regards,

I'll call when mine get's back and I can confirm, but Saturday I think is better -my brother-in-law may be coming in to town from London on Sunday.
Thanks.

[jonr]

Thanks Jon. That would work except I think the reason this happened in the first place is that the drill was slightly off center at the start, so it's not necessarily a straight shot, like your diagram (nicely done BTW). Once I have the pipes off and the nut/remains of bolt out, I'll be in a better position to see what I can do. And that probably will not happen 'till the weekend due to work constraints.

This is why they pay me the big bucks!

I certainly wish you the best of luck on this one... I feel your pain. For a long time, I though I would have to separate the cases on my shaftie because the output shaft casing was stuck. It's not a good feeling...

J

[80gs1000e]

Dude.... .....it can be fixed, just a temporary setback. I would do the temporary fix for the ride and over the winter get it sorted properly.

[Joe Nardy]

Once I have the pipes off and the nut/remains of bolt out, I'll be in a better position to see what I can do. And that probably will not happen 'till the weekend due to work constraints.

Steve,

It would be a good idea to start blasting the header nuts with some PB Blaster or Kroil. I'm sure you don't want any snapped exhaust studs to make your week any worse. I'd soak them every day, maybe several times a a day, hoping to fend off further issues.

Joe

[jpaul]

If you can get heat to the spot without pulling the engine, I would go with the HTS-2000 that Steve recommends. If it looks like it's too tight to do without pulling the engine out of the frame, my suggestion will work without pulling the engine. I have looked at the area on my engine, and I'm so sure it will work, that if you try it, and the repair fails, you can have the engine sitting on my bench. I wouldn't be concerned about using JB Weld on this; it is nothing more than an epoxy that's partially filled with steel. They have been using epoxies to glue aircraft together for over 50 years; it can withstand the expansion and contraction of aluminum. It's formulated to withstand temps up to 500°F. If your engine gets hotter than that in this spot, you have bigger problems than a hole in the crankcase. The biggest problem with my method is that the area must be REALLY, REALLY CLEAN. No residual oil on the surface when the epoxy is applied. Acetone would work really well for the final cleaning.

If someone can meet me on Thursday or Friday when I'm passing through the Chicago area, I can give you the nut and bolt so you have fresh parts to work with.

[Planecrazy]

If someone can meet me on Thursday or Friday when I'm passing through the Chicago area, I can give you the nut and bolt so you have fresh parts to work with.

JP, I don't know where you'll be on Thursday or Friday relative to Buffalo Grove (northwest of the city), but I'm a stay-at-home dad and have a measure of flexibility in terms of meeting you somewhere. My son has pre-school until 1:30 on both days, but otherwise we could conceivably connect up.

Of course Steve (Plasterdog) lives and works much closer to the city (Evanston), so if you're going to be in the city proper it'd be better to try and meet him directly.

Regards,

[jpaul]

I will be passing through the city heading for Madison, Wi. on Thursday. Depending on traffic and starting time, I will be hitting the Chicago area around noon. I'll be taking Lakeshore Blvd through the city, so I'll probably be in your area between 1 and 2 pm. I can stop in Evanston or Buffalo Grove to hand off the parts. I'll be looking to make a late lunch stop around then, so if anyone knows a good spot along the route near them, let me know. PM me with a cell number, and I'll call when I get near.

[Planecrazy]

I will be passing through the city heading for Madison, Wi. on Thursday. Depending on traffic and starting time, I will be hitting the Chicago area around noon. I'll be taking Lakeshore Blvd through the city, so I'll probably be in your area between 1 and 2 pm. I can stop in Evanston or Buffalo Grove to hand off the parts. I'll be looking to make a late lunch stop around then, so if anyone knows a good spot along the route near them, let me know. PM me with a cell number, and I'll call when I get near.

If you're taking Lake Shore Drive through the city than you'll be right on target to meet Steve (Plasterdog) in Evanston if he's available.

Buffalo Grove is further west of the route you're taking, but only ten minutes away from the Tri-State Tollway (I294, well north of the part where traffic is a problem), so you wouldn't lose too much time if you came out my way. If you decide to do this we could definitely plan to have lunch together, but it'd be with at least one and possibly both of my kids (depending on the time) ... your call on that one! One option is to fire up the grill and do some burgers and dogs ... I DO have a reputation for being an excellent chef!

It'd certainly be nice to meet another GS'r, so if it works out I'll look forward to meeting you in person!

Regards,

[Plasterdog]

If you can get heat to the spot without pulling the engine, I would go with the HTS-2000 that Steve recommends. If it looks like it's too tight to do without pulling the engine out of the frame, my suggestion will work without pulling the engine. I have looked at the area on my engine, and I'm so sure it will work, that if you try it, and the repair fails, you can have the engine sitting on my bench. I wouldn't be concerned about using JB Weld on this; it is nothing more than an epoxy that's partially filled with steel. They have been using epoxies to glue aircraft together for over 50 years; it can withstand the expansion and contraction of aluminum. It's formulated to withstand temps up to 500°F. If your engine gets hotter than that in this spot, you have bigger problems than a hole in the crankcase. The biggest problem with my method is that the area must be REALLY, REALLY CLEAN. No residual oil on the surface when the epoxy is applied. Acetone would work really well for the final cleaning.

If someone can meet me on Thursday or Friday when I'm passing through the Chicago area, I can give you the nut and bolt so you have fresh parts to work with.

Thanks JPaul,
Planecrazy and I are going to attack the problem Sunday and I had already ordered new bolts/nuts from BikeBandit, they came in last week, but thanks for the offer.

[jpaul]

If you're taking Lake Shore Drive through the city than you'll be right on target to meet Steve (Plasterdog) in Evanston if he's available.

Buffalo Grove is further west of the route you're taking, but only ten minutes away from the Tri-State Tollway (I294, well north of the part where traffic is a problem), so you wouldn't lose too much time if you came out my way. If you decide to do this we could definitely plan to have lunch together, but it'd be with at least one and possibly both of my kids (depending on the time) ... your call on that one! One option is to fire up the grill and do some burgers and dogs ... I DO have a reputation for being an excellent chef!

It'd certainly be nice to meet another GS'r, so if it works out I'll look forward to meeting you in person!

Regards,

It looks like my hardware is unnecessary, but I'd still like to meet up for lunch. Kids don't bother me, so that's not a problem. While the grilling option is very tempting, travel times over 350 miles could make the timing a hassle for either or both of us. Besides, since I'm traveling on business, it's not like I'm paying with my own money. Since you know the area & your kids, name the place and I'll call when I get close. Then, if you have to leave early or arrive late due to parental duties, it won't be as much of an issue.