GS1000 Carb removal

[jeeptrix]

Just started my bike after it sat for 13 yrs. It would only run on starter fluid as the gas ran straight through the carbs and onto the garage flood. Yes, stuck floats. Lots of lacquer like stuff in the one bowl I could remove. A Dremel worked wonders in cleaning it out.

I need help figuring how to remove the carbs. How do you disconnect the throttle linkage? Also how do you lube the linkage?

Do you have to remove the airbox and which side is better for removing the carbs?

[mark]

Do you have a manual for your bike?

The first thing you do is take your tank off. Remove the two lines (gas and vacuum) that are hooked into your petcock and take off the tank. Stick a rag under the petcock to soak up the little gas that may leak out.

Then, unhook your throttle linkage at the carbs and the choke linkage. Not hard.

Next comes the airbox. Unscrew the 4 clamps on the carbs that hold the intake boots on your airbox to the carbs, and the bolts that hold the airbox on and take off your breather tube on the top. Watch the vent lines that come off number 2 and 4 carb.

My 850 airbox comes out to the right at least on my bike. Fold the kick start in.

Unscrew the 4 clamps that hold your carbs to the intake manifold and wiggle the carbs off.

That's it. The carbs come off pretty easy.

[SqDancerLynn1]

You will probably need to pry on the carbs with a wood 2X4 to get them to pop out

[jeeptrix]

The tank is already off. The only problem is how to remove the throttle linkage.

No kick start. No manual. how does the cable attach and detach?

[louisciccoli]

To remove the cables, you need 2 10 mm wrenches to loosen up the nut on top of the bracket & to hold the one on the bottom that holds the cable in place. Then, take the cable out of the bracket & rotate the front cable forward, which will line up the groove that the cable slips into. Once you have done that, the lead piece on the end of the cable will slip out of the holder on the carb. The process is the same for the cable to the rear, but in the opposite direction. The first cable may be a little difficult to remove, but once you get it off, the other should be easier. If you do not already have the air box off, be ready for a challenge. It is a tight fit between the frame & the carbs. Also, bee careful of the boots, as they may be brittle & possibly crack. Also since you are removing the carbs I would recommend, as I suppose many others would, replacing the the O-rings in the intake boots. To remove them, you need a #3 Phillips screwdriver. Most likely they are compressed & cracked from age. You can pick them up from your local dealer for a few dollars for all 4.


Good luck,Louis

[louisciccoli]

Just another quick thought. I would change all of the O-rings in the carbs as well. You can get an O-ring kit from www.cycleorings.com.

[jeeptrix]

Thanks for the help. The cables came off without too much trouble. The airbox was another story. I had to push the boots into the airbox to make room to remove the carb assembly. BTW the boots looked in excellent shape.

After sitting for 13 yrs the only problems were in the float bowls. Three of the floats were stuck. There was so much crud built up in there I had to use a Dremel and lots of carb fluid to clean them up.

I have ordered the primary jet O rings. I am not going any deeper into the carbs at this time. I will let well enough alone. The stealer wanted a fortune for 4 little pieces of rubber.

[JayH]

I'm assuming that you were able to get the float pivot pin out of the posts? Be sure to clean the pin and float assembly real good.

Since you have the carbs out and say that the carb and airbox intake pipes look OK you might want to check the condition of O rings that are in front of the carb intake pipes. These tend to crack and break over time.

[jeeptrix]

The pivot pins came out easily.

I will check the other O rings you mentioned. But I hate to disturb a well sealed part.

[justin caise]

Today I reinstalled my GS1000 Carbs. OYE!
I chose not to remove the rubber boots from the intakes (on the head side of the carbs) because I don't yet have THE tool to remove the stuck rusty phillipshead screws and I fear damaging the o-rings as well. But I think you're supposed to remove these to get the carbs in and out. (?)
It was really difficult, but I put the airbox in first, held it as far away from the engine as possible (used dust tape as third hand), and slide the carbs in low from the right side. The 4 orafices on the front side of the carbs aimed up toward the intakes, the 4 orafices on the back side of carbs were under the airbox boots. Well, at first all 4 on both front and back of carbs were under there destination boots, until I got them in line.
What i'm saying is I came in low and inserted into the engine side first, then up into the air box boots. Difficult as I said, but WD40 on the boots helped, I hope that's OK with the rubber. I was going to use KY but this bike is gay enough as it is.
I had to use a dental pick tool to unstick the #2 boot from the inside of the carb intake, WD40 again. I just did it shoehorn style.

Tomorrow I get to see if it fires!

[dsw1953]

Good info, I need to check mine!