Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

clutch slippage.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    clutch slippage.

    On going out this last year I notice if I give her the juice really fast like when acclereating on highways etc. That clutch will want too slip just a little. I did the second gear test that book says and yes the clutch is slipping.

    How hard is it too replace these yourself? and would someone be willing too walk me thru on a thread if I took it on?
    83/Gs 1100 shafite.
    Or should I just ride with less emphasis on the heavy clutch shifts. When I do that I have no problems what so ever.

    #2
    before you buy new clutch parts, make sure it is adjust properly. the book you should go step by step on how to adjust it.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Cyg View Post
      On going out this last year I notice if I give her the juice really fast like when acclereating on highways etc. That clutch will want too slip just a little. I did the second gear test that book says and yes the clutch is slipping.

      How hard is it too replace these yourself? and would someone be willing too walk me thru on a thread if I took it on?
      83/Gs 1100 shafite.
      Or should I just ride with less emphasis on the heavy clutch shifts. When I do that I have no problems what so ever.
      I replaced the fiber plates and spring in mine (never done it before) in about 1 hours time.

      Comment


        #4
        I just replaced my plates and springs and I found it to be some of the easiest work that I have done to my bike.

        First you have to remove the rear break lever to be able to remove the clutch cover. (Oh the very first thing is drain the oil) Then once you have the cover off you remove the six bolts holding in the springs and cover. Next remove the cover then remove the plates. I found that two flat screwdrivers work best. The install the new ones reusing the steel plates alternating them. The put the cover back and bolt the new springs in with 9.0 ft/lbs of torque. Then put on a new gaskest and put the cover and brake lever back on and you are done.

        Adam

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Cyg View Post
          On going out this last year I notice if I give her the juice really fast like when acclereating on highways etc. That clutch will want too slip just a little. I did the second gear test that book says and yes the clutch is slipping.

          How hard is it too replace these yourself? and would someone be willing too walk me thru on a thread if I took it on?
          83/Gs 1100 shafite.
          Or should I just ride with less emphasis on the heavy clutch shifts. When I do that I have no problems what so ever.
          My clutch was slipping badly above 7000 rpm's. I had bad springs. I replaced my plates with Barnett fiber plates, and stock OE springs. I also needed to replace the big bronze grooved washer behind the basket. A slick trick: You don't need to remove your brake pedal. Use a screwdriver and pry on your rear caliper and create a gap in between your rear rotor, and your brakepad. Now all you have to do is push down on the brake padal (it will go down far enough to remove the clutch cover).

          Comment


            #6
            you dont have to drain the oil, keep the bike on the sidestand.

            Comment


              #7
              Pretty easy job... I replaced mine in about a hr with barnett fibers and EBC HD springs...

              The hardest part is getting all the old gasket off... Any job worth doing, is worth doing right.
              1980 Gs550e....Not stock... :)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Tarbash 27 View Post
                you dont have to drain the oil, keep the bike on the sidestand.
                True but if he's having trouble w/ the clutch slipping and going to all the trouble to replace the plates and springs I'd drain and change the engine oil.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Don't forget to change all those pita clutch case cover screws with allen type.
                  Last edited by chef1366; 09-19-2006, 01:53 PM.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                    Don't forget to change all those pita clutch case cover screws with allan type.
                    Why? You don't like traditional 8mm socket head screws? No problem with mine.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Road_Clam View Post
                      Why? You don't like traditional 8mm socket head screws? No problem with mine.
                      I had Phillip screw type on mine till I swapped them. Yeah, I like 8mm hex bolts. They're great. AAARRRR
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X