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R45
Hard Clutch
So I am getting the bike road worth. A little latter then wanted but oh well. The cluch cable is adjusted to per the clymer. This has to be the hardest clutch I have ever felt. I haven't been on to many bikes but this seems unusual. Any ideas as to the cause. thanks for any thoughts.Tags: None
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anikmankar
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SkeletonLake
Not sure what you mean by hardest clutch but I have found that if it will not adjust as per the Clymer...
Remove the tank to be sure it isn't binding on the cable, completely remove the cable from both the clutch lever end and down on the case. Pull on the cable to be sure it moves freely, lube or replace if not. Be sure the cable is routed properly. I also use a hose clamp to be sure the cable is not moving (slop/free play) when pulling in the lever. Tighten the hose clamp on the left backbone tube under the tank, tighten just enough to be sure it doesn't slide about; too much will bind the cable. Then reattach the cable up and down and adjust to spec. This has worked well for me, hope it does for you too.
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R45
Thanks for the reply. I will check for snags and routing. The oil has just been replaced and the cable is both new and oiled. What I mean hardest clutch is the amount of effort it takes on the lever to disengauge the clutch. It just seems unusaul. wanted to know if this was normal.
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You might have heavy duty springs in the clutch. Try some oem springs.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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R45
thanks for the thought. Some stuff had been done before I got the bike. That may have been one of them. I will look into it.
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arveejay
Non OEM cables tend to bind and pull harder than Original equipment, and there isn't that much differance in price. When my cable broke and I bought a cheapy the clutch was twice as hard to pull. Put on new original and it was back to normal again.
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Road_Clam
Originally posted by R45 View PostSo I am getting the bike road worth. A little latter then wanted but oh well. The cluch cable is adjusted to per the clymer. This has to be the hardest clutch I have ever felt. I haven't been on to many bikes but this seems unusual. Any ideas as to the cause. thanks for any thoughts.
Try the SIMPLE things first to "isolate" the problem.
1) disconnect the cable at the clutch lever. Does the lever move freely?
2) disconnect the cable at the pivot arm. Does the cable move smooth? If the cable has even the slightest bind, or wear throw it in the trash and buy a new cable!!! (your cable WILL snap 75 mi away from home at 10:00 at night!)
3) pivot the arm back and fourth. does it move smooth.
It's very common for people to add "Barnett" heavy duty clutch springs, when they are totally unneccessary, and all they do is add a brutally stiff clutch pull.
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Dink
I have the same problem!!! My clutch is new stock genuine (fibres,steel & springs) my cable is new stock genuine;lubed and routed correctly,new genuine rack bearings and seal, also have replaced the pullrod bearing.
The Tractor's (GS1150) clutch pull is incredibly stiff ; over twice as heavy as the Katana. As yet I do not know why, But I have a few thoughts that I will investigate.
1) grooves in the clutch basket, the plates catching in them and hence resisting clutch pull.
2) the bearing that supports the hub worn, allowing the clutch to lean, resisting clutch pull
Opinions??
Dink
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anikmankar
what kind of clutch lever you are using. I have found a lot of different if you use dog lever (bent type) over the straight type lever.
Stupid question - but a thought.
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JayH
Originally posted by Dink View PostI have the same problem!!! My clutch is new stock genuine (fibres,steel & springs) my cable is new stock genuine;lubed and routed correctly,new genuine rack bearings and seal, also have replaced the pullrod bearing.
The Tractor's (GS1150) clutch pull is incredibly stiff ; over twice as heavy as the Katana. As yet I do not know why, But I have a few thoughts that I will investigate.
1) grooves in the clutch basket, the plates catching in them and hence resisting clutch pull.
2) the bearing that supports the hub worn, allowing the clutch to lean, resisting clutch pull
Opinions??
Dink
Lots of people change the handlebars to a shorter bar w/ less pullback than the stock GS handlebar. The extra length of the stock clutch cable w/ the shorter bar are usually enough to make the clutch pull much harder even when the cable has been properly lubed and routed along the frame.
Let us know if you find any problems w/ the clutch basket and plates.
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Dink
The Tractor is stock!!! all parts used are genuine,& correct; I am a parts interpreter & have the parts fiche, so I pick my own check supersessions
& then order.
The bars are stock, The lever is new genuine.
Dink
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R45
I didn't even think about the handle bars. The previous owner had put shorter bars on the bike and all the cables and wires are to long for it. The the cables are routed correctly there is just extra at both ends. Thanks for the input and anikmankar to quote South Park "There are no stupid questions just stupid people." We are all here to share our knowledge and to learn.
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the_damnit
hard clutch?
I am having similar issues with an ’80 GS 850. The clutch was hard when I got the bike and with in a couple of weeks the cable snapped. After replacing the cable it was even worse. I thought maybe there was a clutch issue so I took it out but I could not see any visible difference between the old one and one I bought. I put it all back together and it is all the same.
I was told to pressure lube the cable, sand the burrs off the casted ends and grease the ends. My questions are:
Should replace the clutch plates since I already bought a set and I don’t know the history of the bike maintenance?
Should I replace the springs with stock for the same reasons?
When I reattach the clutch cable should I make it as tight as possible when at rest?
I noticed that when on center stand the tire turns even when the clutch is engaged and the bike wants to walk a little.
Thanks guys
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