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is carb synch really all that necessary?

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    is carb synch really all that necessary?

    Hey fellas:
    1981 GS550L
    took the #1 and #4 carbs off to replace some worn out O-rings and was wondering if synching them was really all that necessary. I mean, i dont see how anything could get so far out of whack as to not work properly.
    i didnt drop them- i swear.

    #2
    If you want the bike to run properly, the carbs will need to be synchronized. Otherwise you may end up with a whole list of problems and run yourself ragged trying to figure them out. Even brand new bikes can see an improvement from a good carb synch and an idle drop...
    Last edited by Guest; 09-20-2006, 06:08 PM.

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      #3
      Just IMO, but it depends on the symptoms and if you already have a carb-synch tool. If you own one already, go ahead and synch them up - it is easy and fast. But if not...

      If your bike is idling OK and it has good power, your carbs are probably OK. If it idles rough, vibrates and/or accelerates poorly, you could need a synch.

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        #4
        Originally posted by uudfourty View Post
        Hey fellas:
        1981 GS550L
        took the #1 and #4 carbs off to replace some worn out O-rings and was wondering if synching them was really all that necessary. I mean, i dont see how anything could get so far out of whack as to not work properly.
        i didnt drop them- i swear.
        I thought my bike ran great and nothing could be wrong,then I synced the carbs and man what a difference!!!

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          #5
          When I was first getting my bike tuned in there was a staight away where I did my plug chops and what not. There is a fence next to it and I could hear the different tones of the carb throats echo off it. The bike ran real well but after the sync It ran like a raped ape and the carbs were really "in tune"
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #6
            The short answer. YES!!

            Earl
            Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

            I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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              #7
              well alright

              it seems as if the tribe has spoken.

              Comment


                #8
                Pre-synchronizing carbs

                Here's a handy tip for doing a rough check on the carb butterflies. Years ago I added it to the XS11.COM Tech Tips.

                Pre-Synchronizing Carburetors


                It's useful for:

                1) Getting the synchronization close after a full disassembly.

                2) Doing a "pretty darned close" synchronization if you don't have a set of carb sticks

                The tip shows 1979 XS11 carbs, but will work just the same on the GS variety.

                Bill
                California

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                  #9
                  I can verify this works, got the link here yrs ago, and used it for my 81 gs1100e's first run.
                  Got me close enough to not worry about the synch first off.

                  Originally posted by Bill850 View Post
                  Here's a handy tip for doing a rough check on the carb butterflies. Years ago I added it to the XS11.COM Tech Tips.

                  Pre-Synchronizing Carburetors


                  It's useful for:

                  1) Getting the synchronization close after a full disassembly.

                  2) Doing a "pretty darned close" synchronization if you don't have a set of carb sticks

                  The tip shows 1979 XS11 carbs, but will work just the same on the GS variety.

                  Bill
                  California

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I also have a 550L but it is a 79 with VM carbs. I tried to sink the carbs the other night but I could not get the bike to run with out the choke "on" when I removed the top caps of the carbs. If I tried to reduce the amount of choke the motor would rev up probably above 5000rpm. I reinstalled the top caps and the bike ran normal.

                    I thought I had the airscrews adjusted pretty well but I had another go at it while i had the tank removed. I tried to adjust the airscrews to the highest rpm method and found the screws needed to be adjusted out about 1 full turn from the bottom. I originally had the air screws about two full turns out and rode the bike that way for some time. With the air screws this far out, could this have been creating a lean condition and with the removal of the top caps it was to much airflow into the carbs causing an extremely lean condition, or is there another problem that i am missing.

                    The bike ran alot better once I adjusted the airscrews and i think it resolved a random rpm increase while idleing (this is why i was trying to sync the carbs). I still would like to take a stab at sinking the carbs but i would like to know if someone else has had this issue while the top caps were removed.

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                      #11
                      shocks

                      Hi i have a suzki Gs1000e I need to know how much oil to put in the rear shocks can someone help me

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by uudfourty View Post
                        Hey fellas:
                        1981 GS550L
                        took the #1 and #4 carbs off to replace some worn out O-rings and was wondering if synching them was really all that necessary. I mean, i dont see how anything could get so far out of whack as to not work properly.
                        i didnt drop them- i swear.
                        A synch guage simply measures carb vacuum. Vacuum is what draws fuel out of the carb jets. Less vacuum, less fuel drawn, weaker combustion, weaker power. A sync guage guarantees all 4 cylinders are EQUALLY flowing the same amount of vaccume, which spells precise, and EQUAL efficiency for power output. A tell tale sign for out of sync carbs is sputtery and sluggish bottom end acceleration.

                        Many people have the misconception that mechanically "bench sync'ing" carbs is "close enough", but it's NOT. Bench setup is only a baseline to get the carbs close enough to run. Each of the 4 cylinders has slightly different vacuum needs. This is how a vacuum sync guage is critical.
                        Last edited by Guest; 09-21-2006, 02:46 PM.

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