Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Wits end with lower steering bearing race

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Wits end with lower steering bearing race

    Hi Guys
    I am in the process of changing the steering head bearings on my Suzuki GS1000E (1979). I have removed the forks and wheel and instruments and cables etc. I have removed the triple clamp and lowered and removed the steering stem. My model utilises the taper roller bearings. I have removed the upper bearing race using a suitable drift through the headstock. Now comes the problem I cannot see how to remove the lower race because it actually sits recessed in the headstock preventing any use of a drift because of no bite from the top. Has anybody any ideas on this one please your help is much appreciated. I am also trying to remove the lower bearing off the steering stem with no success, any suggestions greatly appreciated.

    #2
    Break the cage and get the rollers off it then torch to heat it up. Hold the whole thing in a vice with blocks of wood and have at it with a drift and hammer. A bench grinder will substitute a torch. Takes 3-5 min and works quite well.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Mark
      That worked awesome for removing the bearing from the steering stem, cheers mate. How can I remove that wretched bottom race any ideas friends.

      Comment


        #4
        race

        weld a rod across the race so u can hit the rod from thru the top. easy if u had the tools Have fun

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by sharpy View Post
          weld a rod across the race so u can hit the rod from thru the top. easy if u had the tools Have fun
          Sorry have no access to welding gear at all, is there any other way to remove the lower steering bearing race?

          Comment


            #6
            i was able to hammer a chisel in there and it actually took out the entire bearing. i reused it on a different stem. it took alot of beating in my vise but it eventualy cracked loose.

            Comment


              #7
              Just went throught this with my '79 1000.....
              Used my trusty dremel with a thin cutting wheel. Cut two slots @ 180 degrees from each other in the bearing race, as vertically as possible(top to bottom of race). Use a hardened chisel directly in-line with the cut area, to crack the race into two separate pieces. You shouldn't need to cut all the way through into the steel of the head-stock. Apply a little heat to the lower outside of the head-stock, and the pieces should almost fall out, with a little urging from a thin bladed screw driver. I couldn't see a better way at the time, but I like the idea of welding in a cross-bar to hit against.

              Comment


                #8
                The 1000 must be the only one that has this issue with the lower race because I've never seen anyone else mention having this problem. I was a tool & die maker, and I couldn't imagine what the puller would have to look like, to yank that (tapered roller) bottom race out.
                Hugh

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by hp1000s View Post
                  Just went throught this with my '79 1000.....
                  Used my trusty dremel with a thin cutting wheel. Cut two slots @ 180 degrees from each other in the bearing race, as vertically as possible(top to bottom of race). Use a hardened chisel directly in-line with the cut area, to crack the race into two separate pieces. You shouldn't need to cut all the way through into the steel of the head-stock. Apply a little heat to the lower outside of the head-stock, and the pieces should almost fall out, with a little urging from a thin bladed screw driver. I couldn't see a better way at the time, but I like the idea of welding in a cross-bar to hit against.
                  Thanks for that, I am now looking forward to having a bash tomorrow, thanks for renewing my enthusiasm my friend.\\/

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have a tool for removing the brg races, Haven't tried it yet I will be next week. She decided to **** all over from the carbs so the bike is down for some much needed maintance.
                    Valve adj
                    fork seals
                    Head brgs
                    carb sync

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by NitroGS View Post
                      Hi Guys
                      I am in the process of changing the steering head bearings on my Suzuki GS1000E (1979). I have removed the forks and wheel and instruments and cables etc. I have removed the triple clamp and lowered and removed the steering stem. My model utilises the taper roller bearings. I have removed the upper bearing race using a suitable drift through the headstock. Now comes the problem I cannot see how to remove the lower race because it actually sits recessed in the headstock preventing any use of a drift because of no bite from the top. Has anybody any ideas on this one please your help is much appreciated. I am also trying to remove the lower bearing off the steering stem with no success, any suggestions greatly appreciated.
                      Here's some info I did the searching for you:

                      This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks road clam, it is much appreciated

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by hp1000s View Post
                          Just went throught this with my '79 1000.....
                          Used my trusty dremel with a thin cutting wheel. Cut two slots @ 180 degrees from each other in the bearing race, as vertically as possible(top to bottom of race). Use a hardened chisel directly in-line with the cut area, to crack the race into two separate pieces. You shouldn't need to cut all the way through into the steel of the head-stock. Apply a little heat to the lower outside of the head-stock, and the pieces should almost fall out, with a little urging from a thin bladed screw driver. I couldn't see a better way at the time, but I like the idea of welding in a cross-bar to hit against.
                          my 83 gs550 was like that....no place to find an edge to use a drift pin.
                          So I did like you said....dremel with a cutting wheel. 2 slots 180 degrees from each other. Then I just used a small chisel to work them loose. worked like a charm.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Mojoe View Post
                            my 83 gs550 was like that....no place to find an edge to use a drift pin.
                            So I did like you said....dremel with a cutting wheel. 2 slots 180 degrees from each other. Then I just used a small chisel to work them loose. worked like a charm.

                            Eventually got that the race out used an old flywheel puller with the feet offered up to the lip of the race, inserted a geniune 19mm Suzuki spanner (sod the expense) hard up against the headstock base and screwed the tightening screw fully to take up the tension, the spanner started bending. So I used a drift from above to impact on the spanner and pull the bearings clear (see pic). Thank you everybody for all the help and advice, you are pure gold. \\/ :-D

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Good for you!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X