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Wits end with lower steering bearing race

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    #16
    If you can get a puller in there to 'grab' the top of the race, then there is enough of a lip that if you got a long alignment punch you could drive it out from above with hits on opposite sides, a punch and a BIG hammer is how I usually remove races.

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      #17
      For what it's worth I would have taken the assembly to a dealer or machine shop and have them use a bearing press to get it off. The thought of damaging the triple tree and having to replace it daunts me. It really doesn't cost much for these types of things and it's easier.

      I'm a do it yourselfer from way back but it's good to leverage the tools and expertise of those who do this everyday, at least once in a while.
      1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
      1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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        #18
        If the bottom triple tree bearing is a problem, first get the outer sleeve and rollers off, then either use a torch, dremel tool or an angle grinder to cut the race, you don't have to go all the way through, then hit it with a chisel and hammer, it will crack and off it will come.

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          #19
          I would be careful about applying heat and banging on the triple tree. It is a precision part that is inspected at the factory for integrity. Think about how important that part is and the stresses involved on it.
          1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
          1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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            #20
            Originally posted by Clone View Post
            If you can get a puller in there to 'grab' the top of the race, then there is enough of a lip that if you got a long alignment punch you could drive it out from above with hits on opposite sides, a punch and a BIG hammer is how I usually remove races.
            as practical and logical as the sounds, sometimes it just doesn't work.
            on mine there was a lip.....I could feel it with my finger. However, the diameter on the head compared to the length of the head meant that the punch was too "vertical". I could not angle the punch enough to get a good "bite" onto the race....so 3 out of 4 whacks resulted in the punch slipping off the race. A few of those resulted in the punch sailing right out of my hand and shooting out the other end like a bullet. The whack to my gloved hand was the the point when I said "screw this", and dug out the dremel.

            And quite honestly, the dremel with a small cutting wheel worked so well and so fast that I will never even attempt to punch one out again. It took maybe 30 seconds tops to cut each slot. I think I tapped it twice with the punch and it fell right out.

            And I agree with duaneage....not a good idea to be using a torch. You have to remember that extreme heat can change the shape and form of metals. And obviously, the same with banging on it.
            Last edited by Guest; 09-27-2006, 11:25 AM.

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              #21
              If that triple tree is going to distort from the force I use to crack a cut race, then OH MY GOD:shock: how can it handle the shock from a pothole? Really, once you cut that sleeve half through or so, it will crack with hardly any force at all, and I have used this method and seen it used on parts a lot less robust than a triple for years without damage. It works, won't damage it and is very low on the frustration scale for methods that don't work.

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