APE clutch kit?

[80GS1000]

I did a search and didn't find an answer to this question:

My GS1000E is due for a clutch rebuild with some new clutch springs and friction plates as it's getting grabby when the clutch is pulled all the way in and it slips under heavy acceleration. I'm thinking of using the APE clutch kit and am wondering if anyone has any experience with its quality and performance etc.

Thanks for any info.

[80gs1000e]

They have a good reputation. As long as its not the drag racing springs/kit it should be solid. Those springs will kill your hand I've heard.

Remember to get one of their ape racing clutch hub nuts when you do it.

[BadBillyB]

The problem with the clutch kits that give you an extra friction plate is that they are made of steel. The steel plates will quickly wear the soft aluminum in the basket where the "fingers" make contact. The factory plates are made of aluminum and are much easier on the basket. Switching from one to the other will also cause the contact areas (into the basket) to overlap and you will possibly have release issues. I would recommend using factory Suzuki plates and replace the friction plates and the steel plates. If you are making more than stock HP, increase the spring tension to compensate.......BadBillyB

[pano]

I have used the APE clutch two times and on different bikes. I think the kit works fine and have had no issues.

BadBillyB brings up a point I did not know about however.

[80GS1000]

The problem with the clutch kits that give you an extra friction plate is that they are made of steel. The steel plates will quickly wear the soft aluminum in the basket where the "fingers" make contact. The factory plates are made of aluminum and are much easier on the basket. Switching from one to the other will also cause the contact areas (into the basket) to overlap and you will possibly have release issues. I would recommend using factory Suzuki plates and replace the friction plates and the steel plates. If you are making more than stock HP, increase the spring tension to compensate.......BadBillyB

Thanks for the information. It sounds like I can and should just keep my existing aluminum plate. Does it wear out? And if so, how can I tell if the aluminum plate is worn? I've never rebuilt my clutch before.

The aluminum plate is #9 in this diagram, correct?

[Dink]

Yup no 9 is it , genuine is the way to go.

Dink

[Road_Clam]

I did a search and didn't find an answer to this question:

My GS1000E is due for a clutch rebuild with some new clutch springs and friction plates as it's getting grabby when the clutch is pulled all the way in and it slips under heavy acceleration. I'm thinking of using the APE clutch kit and am wondering if anyone has any experience with its quality and performance etc.

Thanks for any info.

Read this first:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=98852&highlight=Clutch

there is absolutely no need to add a drag race engineered clutch system in a street driven bike.
I have the bone stock OE springs, with Barnett fiber plates. My clutch action is smooth, bites progressively hard, and clutch pull is "OEM" easy!

[80GS1000]

Great! If you use OEM parts, it actually winds up being about $30 cheaper for the aluminum plate, the fiber friction plates, and clutch springs than using the APE kit. Thanks for the advise!

[80GS1000]

What's the performance limit on the stock clutch? How much can you hop up the engine before a higher performance clutch like the APE kit is required?

If money allows, I want to hotrod this GS1000 engine with a 1085 overbore kit, ported valves, cams, flatslide carbs and rejetting.

Would you expect this to be too much for the stock clutch? At what point do you need to start looking at billet clutch baskets/hubs, stronger clutch springs and friction plates to handle the additional torque and horsepower?

Thanks!

[Dink]

What's the performance limit on the stock clutch? How much can you hop up the engine before a higher performance clutch like the APE kit is required?

If money allows, I want to hotrod this GS1000 engine with a 1085 overbore kit, ported valves, cams, flatslide carbs and rejetting.

Would you expect this to be too much for the stock clutch? At what point do you need to start looking at billet clutch baskets/hubs, stronger clutch springs and friction plates to handle the additional torque and horsepower?

Thanks!

Considering that the "Drag- racers" are still using stock plates; and most will recommend them, 1085 wont be a problem.

dink