new clutch, hard to shift

[rgierer]

Put i a new clutch, springs and plates this wekend and after a detour or two seem to have the clutch working and adjusted adaqautely.

I rode the bike to work today and had a very difficult time downshifting into the lower gears. In fact I rolled on into the parking lot in 3rd. As I was backing the bike into place I kicked the shiofter and it dropped down to the lower gears.

I suspect this is connected to the clutch but am more than a little stumped as to what I should do. The clutch adjustment seems to be right on.

miles on new clutch, less than 55.

Any help?

[BadBillyB]

Did you replace all the steel plates and friction plates???......BadBillyB

[rgierer]

I only replaced the friction plates and springs. I reused the metal ones. Clutch was changed due to general slippage. I replaced clutch cable as well

[80GS1000]

What brand of clutch kit did you use?

[rgierer]

I ordered springs and discs from Dennis Kirk. They were EBC's.

I just went out and started the bike on the center stand and it went throguh the gears, OK albeit a little downshifting to 2nd.

[BadBillyB]

I know it's a little pricey, but you need to replace the metal plates. Not only are they prone to warpage but when you take them out and put them back in, in a random order, they very seldom release correctly.....If I am changing frictions only, I mark the steels and put them back in EXACTLY the same order and in EXACTLY the same position as they were in......BadBillyB

[rgierer]

In this case I can say with confidence I did put them back in exactly the ordered they were removed. I must admit I did not take care with their position

[rgierer]

I just took the bike for a 15 miles ride and although downshifting to the lower gears is not great it seems to improve with use.

No disregard for the counsel I have recieved but, I think we (the bike and I) will need to find out if we can work this out before I spring for the metal plates.

[chef1366]

Are you sure you have the clutch lever on the engine cover lined up on the pinion gear properly? If your off one tooth the clutch will partially engage but make it a pain to shift. Does your bike want to jump with the clutch in at idle?

[rgierer]

Are you sure you have the clutch lever on the engine cover lined up on the pinion gear properly? If your off one tooth the clutch will partially engage but make it a pain to shift. Does your bike want to jump with the clutch in at idle?

This may be it. It does not want to jump but does want to creep just a little. It will start in gear but does pull just a little.

next question, if I was to ex[plore with this would I move it in closer or away from the engine case?

[rgierer]

I went out and looked at the actuation arm and it appears to me that the arm is out, away from the body off the bike to the extent that I doubt the cable could extend to it being another notch farther out. Moving it in will only reduce the extent the clutch is released and I would not anticipate that to help with my dilema. Your thoughts?

[chef1366]

How much adjustment do you have left on the cable, upper and lower? If the cable is new the adjustments should be at or near it's shortest point.

[rgierer]

at the top I have a lot to adjust and the bottom it is pretty much fully extended

[chef1366]

If you moved the lever counterclockwise one tooth do you think you have enough cable to reach? I don't know if this is your problem, just trying to help. My bike does not pull at all at idle, in gear with the clutch lever pulled. But I've done the one tooth off and the locked up clutch trick and all I can do is share my experience of how I got it to work.

[rgierer]

Maybe if I extend the cable at the hand lever, but it is worth a try.