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Would WD40 damage the carbs?
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DieMonkeys
Would WD40 damage the carbs?
I ask this because I'm about to try and slip the carbs back on. I was having problems last night trying to get them on, and I was wondering, would WD40 cause any damage inside the engine, the airbox, or the carbs? If not, I'll wipe some WD40 to the inside of the rubber boots to make getting the carbs on a bit easier.Tags: None
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jimcor
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wolfie
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KY:shock:\\/ :-D1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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DieMonkeys
Well, I seem to be having issues. The middle two on the airbox side keep trying to deform into ovals or whatever, so I can never get all four on the airbox side on at the same time. I'm about to set fire to the bike. I decided to take a moment to cool down. We'll see how it comes shortly.
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jimcor
Originally posted by DieMonkeys View PostWell, I seem to be having issues. The middle two on the airbox side keep trying to deform into ovals or whatever, so I can never get all four on the airbox side on at the same time. I'm about to set fire to the bike. I decided to take a moment to cool down. We'll see how it comes shortly.
Be cool. I kicked in the door of a beautiful 1964 Ford Galaxy while trying to install a floor shifter conversion. Man, was I dumb...s-t-o-o-p-i-d...dumb. College days
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Clone
Somebody a while ago suggested "son of a gun" treatment to help put the carbs in. you could always just put a little oil o the carb neck.
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Road_Clam
Originally posted by DieMonkeys View PostWell, I seem to be having issues. The middle two on the airbox side keep trying to deform into ovals or whatever, so I can never get all four on the airbox side on at the same time. I'm about to set fire to the bike. I decided to take a moment to cool down. We'll see how it comes shortly.
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t3rmin
I made a similar tool out of a coat hanger. Actually I have two. I stick 'em both in there and can get a wider area stretched. What a pain though!
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Originally posted by DieMonkeys View PostWell, I seem to be having issues. The middle two on the airbox side keep trying to deform into ovals or whatever, so I can never get all four on the airbox side on at the same time. I'm about to set fire to the bike. I decided to take a moment to cool down. We'll see how it comes shortly.Current stable:
85 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
87 Kawasaki ZL1000 Eliminator
99 Kawasaki ZRX1100 Eddie Lawson replica
15 Yamaha VMAX - The Maroon Monsoon
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o..._Avatar1_1.jpg
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t3rmin
Indeed. There are few things I can think of that I despise doing more than remounting the carbs on that @#$%!@$ airbox. If only the boots were more rigid like on the intake side, and the airbox itself didn't flex in the middle.
It's enough to make a person want to go through the pain of rejetting and run pods.
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DieMonkeys
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Bud
Hey at least they all go in the same direction. The ones for my sabre are by FAR worse. V 4 with the carbs in the middle of the V. So, to get them in, all you have to do is push down left and right at the same time . and they give you NO room. The board for that has helful hints like "Use a 2x4" and "wrap a belt around the engine"...
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Pods, my savior.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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