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Would WD40 damage the carbs?

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    Would WD40 damage the carbs?

    I ask this because I'm about to try and slip the carbs back on. I was having problems last night trying to get them on, and I was wondering, would WD40 cause any damage inside the engine, the airbox, or the carbs? If not, I'll wipe some WD40 to the inside of the rubber boots to make getting the carbs on a bit easier.

    #2
    No, it will not cause any problems. Yes, I have used it myself for this purpose.

    Comment


      #3
      I did the same thing. Heating them up with the wife's hair dryer also helped a bunch.

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        #4
        KY:shock:\\/ :-D
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          Well, I seem to be having issues. The middle two on the airbox side keep trying to deform into ovals or whatever, so I can never get all four on the airbox side on at the same time. I'm about to set fire to the bike. I decided to take a moment to cool down. We'll see how it comes shortly.

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            #6
            Originally posted by DieMonkeys View Post
            Well, I seem to be having issues. The middle two on the airbox side keep trying to deform into ovals or whatever, so I can never get all four on the airbox side on at the same time. I'm about to set fire to the bike. I decided to take a moment to cool down. We'll see how it comes shortly.
            It is that frustrating the first couple nine or ten timnes you do it...:shock: :shock: :shock: !

            Be cool. I kicked in the door of a beautiful 1964 Ford Galaxy while trying to install a floor shifter conversion. Man, was I dumb...s-t-o-o-p-i-d...dumb. College days

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              #7
              Somebody a while ago suggested "son of a gun" treatment to help put the carbs in. you could always just put a little oil o the carb neck.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by DieMonkeys View Post
                Well, I seem to be having issues. The middle two on the airbox side keep trying to deform into ovals or whatever, so I can never get all four on the airbox side on at the same time. I'm about to set fire to the bike. I decided to take a moment to cool down. We'll see how it comes shortly.
                I bleed for ya pal, it's NO easy task!!! I find it's a bit easier to slide (jam) my carb rack in below the boots, and then force them upwards. I also use Silicone spray, or Armor All on the boots to make them nice and slippery. I also made a special "boot stretcher tool" It's a .090" tig welding wire with a 90 dergee bend about 1/2" long, and the overall length is 12". I force the bend between the boot and the carb body, and work the tool around the boot to expand the boot and get it to fit over the carb. It's always the 2 inside carbs that are the most frustrating PIA!! Now after 2 years, and much foul language, I can swap my carb rack in and out about an hour.

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                  #9
                  I made a similar tool out of a coat hanger. Actually I have two. I stick 'em both in there and can get a wider area stretched. What a pain though!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by DieMonkeys View Post
                    Well, I seem to be having issues. The middle two on the airbox side keep trying to deform into ovals or whatever, so I can never get all four on the airbox side on at the same time. I'm about to set fire to the bike. I decided to take a moment to cool down. We'll see how it comes shortly.
                    I went through this a few weeks ago. I was so frustrated, I kicked over a trash can and was cussing like a sailor! Took me all of two hours to finally get them in, ALMOST an impossible task. The best part is, I ended up skinning my kneecap from wrestling around trying to do this, and a couple of days later, my "skinned" knee really started to bother me. Fast forward to today, I just got back from the doctor who did a very nice job LANCING the BOIL on my KNEE, caused indirectly by these STUPID carbs that WOULDN'T GO BACK ON MY BIKE! Talk about a painful procedure, not to mention having to miss a day of work and all. I feel for you buddy, trust me, I feel for you!!!!
                    Current stable:

                    85 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
                    87 Kawasaki ZL1000 Eliminator
                    99 Kawasaki ZRX1100 Eddie Lawson replica
                    15 Yamaha VMAX - The Maroon Monsoon

                    http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o..._Avatar1_1.jpg

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                      #11
                      Indeed. There are few things I can think of that I despise doing more than remounting the carbs on that @#$%!@$ airbox. If only the boots were more rigid like on the intake side, and the airbox itself didn't flex in the middle.

                      It's enough to make a person want to go through the pain of rejetting and run pods.

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                        #12
                        Pods? What are pods?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by DieMonkeys View Post
                          Pods? What are pods?
                          Little individual tapered cone-shaped filters that go one on each carb and replace the airbox. They increase airflow enough to require rejetting.

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                            #14
                            Hey at least they all go in the same direction. The ones for my sabre are by FAR worse. V 4 with the carbs in the middle of the V. So, to get them in, all you have to do is push down left and right at the same time . and they give you NO room. The board for that has helful hints like "Use a 2x4" and "wrap a belt around the engine"...

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                              #15


                              Pods, my savior.
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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