HOW TO LOCK ROTOR (gs1100gl 1982)

[Guest]

First thread I ever post, so let's hope this goes well.

When I pressed the start button, the startmotor spins freely. I have found out that the starter clutch and the rotor are still in excellent shape, but that the rotor is not locked to the crankshaft, except for a simple nut on holding it in place. But as I press the start button, the rotor spins in the 'unscrew' direction of the nut, that comes loose... How does the nut need to be locked ? Can anyone mail me a technical photo or give a good explanation or something so that I can see what piece I'm missing ?

This already got repaired in a shop, but there they just put some pressure on the nut (it lasted a couple of months, but that's not the way forward...)

best regards,

gert (gert.du.prez@volvo.com)

[Dink]

If you remove the bolt and rotor, inspect the taper the rotor sits on, is it damaged at all?? If so use Loctite 638 on the taper,refit the rotor, a large screwdriver carefully wedged between the starter gear and the idler gear will lock up the rotor to tighten the bolt.

Dink

[Guy]

A good tip I was once given works well:

Smear a little fine grinding paste on the taper and turn the rotor on it for a minute or so, then wipe away EVERY TRACE of it. This will ensure a good tight fit between the two. Don't know about jamming screwdrivers between gears though. I usually use a bit of rag for that. Or put the bike in fifth and have someone stomp on the back brake while you torque up the bolt to 76 ft lbs. A bit of locktight on the threads of the bolt should be all you need.

[gert du prez]

YES,
that was apparently the answers that I needed. I found the loctite 638 in a shop with car equipment. Had the taper and rotor cleaned, put some loctite on it, had the nut glued as well, put in on momentum...
and then, yesterday evening, starter button pressed and engine running !

I've put the money that the repair shop would have asked in my pocket: now I have money left over for beer ! Thanks.

gert

[tfb]

Hmm, be reaaally careful with putting Loctite on the taper there, chaps. It will hold the rotor on alright, but when the day comes for some poor soul to pull it off, they might be in for a character-building (or -destroying) time.

I spent five (5) hours the other week trying to get the rotor off the end of the crank of my Kat1100. It turned out that Loctite was solution a PO had chosen... and the problem I ended up with.

I like the idea of using grinding paste on the taper interface, to help ensure that the surfaces engage properly.

But frankly, why Suzuki never thought to put in a woodruff key (or something like that) to stop the rotor hub from spinning, has me mystified.

Mike.

[gert du prez]

Ok,
it's a bit late to omit the Loctite, as I already put it on a couple of days ago...

Isn't there a product by Loctite themselves that cleans or washes off the used Loctite (as you have degreaser, some de-Loctite or so) ?

The test run on Sunday morning proved that indeed everything is well in place now...no probs anymore...

gert