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So you're saying the screw is basically down in its hole about as far as the others approximately? I can't see how anyone could cross thread it that deeply. I can see cross threading a few turns in but not to within 1 or 2 turns (if set similar to factory) of bottoming. I think you have the typical stuck mixture screw.
If the screw head is in good shape to accept a good fitting tool, I have good luck by turning the screw in 'til lightly seated first, then I pick out any crud from the now exposed threads with a straight pin and add a drop of lube. Then I start backing it out.
If damaged or it won't turn at all...I don't know if you plan to do a complete carb cleaning/rebuild or not but if you look at how recessed the screw is and how its position compares to the others, the screw MAY be set very similar to the others and it may be best to leave it alone, pending testing. If recessed similar, you can turn in one of the other screws and maybe that will give you an idea of how far out the stuck one is from seated and if it's in its normal "range" of adjustment. I only mention this as a "lazy" option that may stop you from getting in too deep. If you want to clean and rebuild, you won't be able to do a typical cleaning job with the screw in there or replace any worn o-ring. You can still shoot cleaner up the pilot passage. Rinse immediately with fuel so the mixture screw o-ring isn't attacked.
Still best to get it out. But if you think the screw is adjusted close to the others and removing it may ruin the carb body, it may be best to leave it, test, and if testing says the screw or its adjustment is causing a problem, then try to remove it.
If the screw head is in good shape to accept a good fitting tool, I have good luck by turning the screw in 'til lightly seated first, then I pick out any crud from the now exposed threads with a straight pin and add a drop of lube. Then I start backing it out.
If damaged or it won't turn at all...I don't know if you plan to do a complete carb cleaning/rebuild or not but if you look at how recessed the screw is and how its position compares to the others, the screw MAY be set very similar to the others and it may be best to leave it alone, pending testing. If recessed similar, you can turn in one of the other screws and maybe that will give you an idea of how far out the stuck one is from seated and if it's in its normal "range" of adjustment. I only mention this as a "lazy" option that may stop you from getting in too deep. If you want to clean and rebuild, you won't be able to do a typical cleaning job with the screw in there or replace any worn o-ring. You can still shoot cleaner up the pilot passage. Rinse immediately with fuel so the mixture screw o-ring isn't attacked.
Still best to get it out. But if you think the screw is adjusted close to the others and removing it may ruin the carb body, it may be best to leave it, test, and if testing says the screw or its adjustment is causing a problem, then try to remove it.
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