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    oil light stay lit

    The wiring was a mess on my 83 gs1100. I have most of them hooked up right now & I have gotten the bike to run ok but the oil light stays lit. It could be as simple as me having plugged it into the wrong connector. Can anyone tell me where this wire plugs into in the harness. The reason I wonder if the light is connected properly is the bike seems to run fine. It isn't road worthy yet but runs alright in my driveway. But that voice in the back of my head says find out for sure.

    Paul
    80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

    #2
    On the wiring diagrams for the G models ('79-'84 1100 and 850) the wire that runs from the oil pressure switch to the bulb is green with a yellow stripe. The bulb has a second wire that should be the same as what powers the other bulbs (like the high beam, turn signals, and neutral). On some models it's orange, on others it's green with an orange stripe, and on some it's black.

    Hope that helps.

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      #3
      Well, when i plug the wire in & fire the bike, all the trouble shooting lights (battery, brake light, brake fluid etc) come on plus the oil light still stays lit.

      Paul
      80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

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        #4
        Originally posted by nastyjones View Post
        Well, when i plug the wire in & fire the bike, all the trouble shooting lights (battery, brake light, brake fluid etc) come on plus the oil light still stays lit.

        Paul
        If your wiring was as messed up as it sounds, you should really get a good schematic for your model. The Clymer's manual for my bikes have detailed, color coded wiring diagrams. I had to re-wire a bunch of fried wires inside my headlight bucket. Couldn't do it without that schematic.

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          #5
          If it's a 'G' model I can scan and send you a copy of a color schematic. I imagine the wiring on the non-'G' models are similar, but I don't know what, if any, differences there are.

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            #6
            Look at the oil sight window IF the oil disapears when you start it you should have oil pressure. My oil light hasn't worked since I got the bike 3 1/2 years ago

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              #7
              Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
              Look at the oil sight window IF the oil disapears when you start it you should have oil pressure. My oil light hasn't worked since I got the bike 3 1/2 years ago
              My oil light hasnt worked in 16 years and now my high beam light doesnt work. Anybody know if and how you can change those light bulbs?

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                #8
                Originally posted by Deesel View Post
                My oil light hasnt worked in 16 years and now my high beam light doesnt work. Anybody know if and how you can change those light bulbs?
                It depends on the model. The ones I've seen have either a cover over the whole back of the gauge/idiot light assembly or separate covers. Just take off the nuts (or screws), take off the cover and pull out the bulb socket (usually a rubber coated thing). Find exact replacement bulbs and put it back together. It's pretty straightforward.

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                  #9
                  One thing you could do to ease your mind about oil pressure... while you troubleshoot the wiring problem, is to verify that you do HAVE oil pressure.

                  We're assuming the oil pressure switch is functional. Disconnect the wires from the switch and crank the engine up. Connect an ohmmeter across the switch terminals and read the continuity. I'm guessing here but I think that oil pressure switch is "normally closed" when there is no pressure (engine off) and "open" when there is pressure (engine running). Whether the switch is carrying voltage thru to the bulb, or carrying a ground to close a circuit... either way, you ought to see the meter read continuity when there is NO pressure, and it should read NO continuity when there is pressure.

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                    #10
                    It's been raining here in SW Ontario Canada for the last few days, but I will try the continuity test later today if possible.

                    Paul
                    80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

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