First Ride, Now I've got some questions

[Brianjonesphoto]

I just got back from my first ever ride out side of the MSF course!! It was great and the bike handled pretty well from what I can tell, but I'm a total noob.

First question. I had something strange happen to me a coulpe times tonight. I was accelorating after shifting to 3rd (I think could be 2nd) and as I rolled on the throttle there was a pop that sounded like it came from the transmission a momentary drop in rpm then much stronger acceloration without more throttle input. I only did it twice. I thought it was a missed shift but I don't think the bike ever was in neutral it pulled steadily the whole time.

Second question: Front brake. Where is the usual engagement point for the lever? I have to pull the lever untill I'm about 1.25" to the grip before I get any resistance, and I can pull the lever to the grip with a strong pull. I know there is still an issue with the brake I think there might be a little air trapped in the system, but I can't get it out. I've tried bleeding normally,and using a vaccuum bleeder. I think I'm going to try adapt my pressue bleeder for my car and give that a try. I've rebuilt the MC, both calipers and replaced the line with dual full length hose eleminating the "y". When I squeeze the lever I can hear noise from the calipers kind of like air but I can't find a leak. I've removed the pads and stuck a piece of pipe in there for resistance and can't see any bubbles or other signs of a leak

Any thoughts?

Thanks

[Steve]

Depending on how long the bike sat, unridden, the carb jets might be starting to clog. Might want to run some Techron or SeaFoam through a couple of tanks to see if that helps.

Brake activation point?
I don't know any measurements, but you should have a small area with no resistance, then have it progressively stronger as you pull. If it still feels mushy, you still have some air in there.

Two things to try:
1) Cover any painted surfaces near the front of the bike. Crack open the banjo bolt fitting at the master cylinder and squeeze the lever carefully. Tighten the fitting, release the lever. Repeat this a couple of times to remove any possible air pockets from the fitting area. Then try another vacuum session at the caliper bleeders to see if that helps.
2) If that does not help, squeeze the brake lever and use some tape, wire, anything to hold it there overnight. Sometimes the smallest of air bubbles will finially work their way up, and with the lever pulled, they will end up in the top of the reservoir where they belong.


.

[KGB]

Did you rebuild the caliper also?
New pads? That may not be seated or bedded in yet ?


There is no "set" free play for brake levers. It's more personal preferance or feel.

[Brianjonesphoto]

Did you rebuild the caliper also?
New pads? That may not be seated or bedded in yet ?


There is no "set" free play for brake levers. It's more personal preferance or feel.

Yes the3 calipers were rebiult too. I did install new pads al around. But I wouldn't think new pads would cause a mushy lever. The rear is just fine.

[snark]

Sounds like the brakes just need to be bled.