Stator replacement OEM or Electrex

[Brianjonesphoto]

I think my stator is dead. I bearly got home today. I've ridden less than 70 miles this week since I charged the battery on Sunday 3 rides total. I was only getting 10 volts out of the battery when I got home this afternoon I've gone through the charging trouble shoot and I think it's the stator. I'm only getting 35VAC at 5000 rpm on the no load test between the leads.

My question is should I get a NOS OEM stator available for $110 or an electrex for $134. Any reason to go either way?

Thanks

[83GS1100E_Tornado]

Where are you getting a price of 134 for your Electrex stator? I think bikebandit.com has them cheaper than that????? Either way, I'd still get the aftermarket piece, technology has changed alot in the last 20 odd years, besides, where can you find an NOS one?????

[skreemer]

how about rebuilding it yourself? A bit of wire and some time... Cost him about 45$ total. Technology for this really hasn't changed much... rotating magnet mass around a coil of wires with different poles produces the voltage... same as it did back then.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=100230

[Brianjonesphoto]

Where are you getting a price of 134 for your Electrex stator? I think bikebandit.com has them cheaper than that????? Either way, I'd still get the aftermarket piece, technology has changed alot in the last 20 odd years, besides, where can you find an NOS one?????

Bike bandit doesn't carry the stator for my bike they have others but not mine. I'd have to order one from electrasport for $119 and $15 shipping.

how about rebuilding it yourself? A bit of wire and some time... Cost him about 45$ total. Technology for this really hasn't changed much... rotating magnet mass around a coil of wires with different poles produces the voltage... same as it did back then.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=100230

I might rebuild my current one, but I would like to have the bike up and running. I'd rebuild it for a spare, but I'd like to keep the bike on the road as much as possible.

[flyingace]

First of all, do you know if it's that stator or the R/R? Failure of either can produce low voltage at the battery. Run the diagnostic tests in the 'stator papers' on this site.

If it is the stator, the price I see in the ELECTROSPORT site in $119. It's what I paid for mine.

You can rewind it yourself, but I don't think I could be 100% sure I wouldn't screw that up somewhere. And the stator is mission critical.

[Jethro]

I have a Ricks I am quite pleased with.

[Keith Winter]

Hi
When I found my bike the stator was burned to a crisp. After checking into the expensive options to fix this problem, I decided to try rewinding it myself. I had never tried this sort of thing before, but found it was not at all a tough thing to do what so ever,, and that's before I knew about this site and the step by step instructions on here. I counted the turns as I took the old wire off, made a note and diagram on wire placement. I got the wire from a place that rewinds electric motors, and bought it by the pound not the foot. The wire I got has a plastic type of coating that is FAR better than the old laquer coated type of magnet wire that used to be on these things. The new coating is not affected by oil, vibration, or the normal temperature that these bikes run at. As the cost of the wire to rewind my stator once was going to be a whole $3, yes that is correct THREE DOLLARS, I bought $12 worth and can rewind it 4 times if I have to. I rewound it and DID NOT even bother to coat the windings in epoxy as this wire is supposed to be vibration proof. That was 5 years ago now and the stator output is still the same as it was when I rewound it. If you do rewind it yourself, the wire I used has a clear coating and not the red, brown, or green color.
Keith

[cberkeley]

I just bought the Electrex from Dennis Kirk and I like it