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16V TSCC 750 Clutch Cable Adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter UncleMike
  • Start date Start date
U

UncleMike

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I have zero slack in my clutch cable. Can someone run me through the procedure for getting that 2-3mm of play so that my clutch will fully engage? No matter what I turn, no matter which way I turn it, nothing seems to change. I've gotta be doing something wrong.

Thanks,
~Mike
 
Is this a new clutch?

I know when I replaced my clutch I struggled mightily to have any slack in the cable the first hundred miles or so. It is pretty straight forward on the bikes with the rack and pinion clutch drive set up. I replaced my cable the same time I replaced the cluch and there was just not much room at all.
 
I don't think so, but just to be fair, I know that both have almost 3K miles on them, because I've put that much on them personally.

The reason I ask is because my clutch is not engaging fully.
 
don't get your panties in a bunch :-D

we're here


some are busy due to the "holiday" of All hallo's Eve [-o<
 
At the handlebar tun the adjusters all the way in. Assess paly, (I assume you have done this and have no play). Go down to the adjustment at the clutch arm (for lack a better word) and extend that out as far as possible. At that point you should have slack in you cable. Pull the arm in unitl you have the desired slack.

If this does not work your arm may be on the wrong notch.
 
When I replaced the fibre plates in my clutch I could not get the cable onto the engine side unless the lever side was detached. Then I had to finess (great j_sus screwdriver vice grips etc) it onto the adjuster at the perch.

S.
 
Mike's problem is that he can't see how to adjust the cable on the clutch end at all. He can't seem to get any movement one way or another and doesn't see a phillips adjuster screw at the end. Anybody have any advice on that particular issue?
 
t3rmin said:
Mike's problem is that he can't see how to adjust the cable on the clutch end at all. He can't seem to get any movement one way or another and doesn't see a phillips adjuster screw at the end. Anybody have any advice on that particular issue?
Click to expand...

Well, I've found the adjustment at the clutch lever and at the clutch end, and what I'm thinking is that it's just so damned tight that I'm not getting any actually slack, so I'm lubing the hell out of it and seeing if that helps.
 
Are you loosening the locknut down there? You can crank on it all day but without loosening that locknut it'll just snap back ('cause you're just twisting on the cable).
 
t3rmin said:
Are you loosening the locknut down there? You can crank on it all day but without loosening that locknut it'll just snap back ('cause you're just twisting on the cable).
Click to expand...

Yeah, sure am.
 
Well I guess I'm still stumped. Unless it's on the wrong tooth on the splined shaft, like sombody else suggested. Is the angle made when the cable meets the lever down there greater than 90 degrees? If so it may be turned out too far and should be removed from the shaft and seated on the splines such that the angle is 90 degrees or less.
 
t3rmin said:
Well I guess I'm still stumped. Unless it's on the wrong tooth on the splined shaft, like sombody else suggested. Is the angle made when the cable meets the lever down there greater than 90 degrees? If so it may be turned out too far and should be removed from the shaft and seated on the splines such that the angle is 90 degrees or less.
Click to expand...

I've moved it on the shaft, so that now when I pull the clutch lever in, the arm is parallel with the case gasket or the serial numbers. However, since I've done that, the clutch will slip when I really lay on her and she gets up past about 6Krpms.

I'm going to seat her back one tooth counter clockwise and re-adjust.
 
If the pivot gear lever on the clutch is on right and you have taken all the slack off the cable and it's still tight, buy a Suzuki OEM clutch cable.
Are all you clutch fibers and steel plates in right?
 
Even with a worn out cable you should still be able to observe some movement of the arm and/or slackening/tightening of the cable while adjusting. You might not be able to actually get it in spec, but you'd see that your adjusting was having some effect...
 
t3rmin said:
Even with a worn out cable you should still be able to observe some movement of the arm and/or slackening/tightening of the cable while adjusting. You might not be able to actually get it in spec, but you'd see that your adjusting was having some effect...
Click to expand...

Yes, it's having an effect, it's just that I can't get it to get any slack as it's so tight. When I move the arm a tooth over so I can get slack in the cable, the clutch slips. We'll see how lubing it stretches it a bit.
 
Again, make sure the angle made when the cable hits the arm is 90 degrees or slightly more. If you've got the arm turned out too far on the shaft and it's less than 90 degrees you may not be able to get enough slack and the handlebar lever will be harder to pull.
 
t3rmin said:
Again, make sure the angle made when the cable hits the arm is 90 degrees or slightly more. If you've got the arm turned out too far on the shaft and it's less than 90 degrees you may not be able to get enough slack and the handlebar lever will be harder to pull.
Click to expand...

The angle made where the cable hits the arm is 90 degrees almost exactly when I pull in the handlebar lever. However, in doing so, there is no slack in the cable whatsoever.

If I move the arm over one tooth, so that I can get some slack, the clutch slips in higher rpms.
 
That's odd. You'd think it'd slip when you *didn't* have slack. With slack, the clutch should be fully engaged (fully squished together, no room to slip). Without slack, it's likely it's somewhat actuated (not full pressure on the plates, more likely to start slipping). If your clutch is slipping when there's slack in the cable it may be time for a new clutch.

Think about it, when you actuate the clutch with the handlebar lever, you tighten/pull on the cable and cause the clutch to slip and then fully disengage. When the lever is not being pressed is when the cable should be at its loosest and the clutch should be gripping its hardest.
 
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