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16V TSCC 750 Clutch Cable Adjustment

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    16V TSCC 750 Clutch Cable Adjustment

    I have zero slack in my clutch cable. Can someone run me through the procedure for getting that 2-3mm of play so that my clutch will fully engage? No matter what I turn, no matter which way I turn it, nothing seems to change. I've gotta be doing something wrong.

    Thanks,
    ~Mike

    #2
    Is this a new clutch?

    I know when I replaced my clutch I struggled mightily to have any slack in the cable the first hundred miles or so. It is pretty straight forward on the bikes with the rack and pinion clutch drive set up. I replaced my cable the same time I replaced the cluch and there was just not much room at all.

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      #3
      I don't think so, but just to be fair, I know that both have almost 3K miles on them, because I've put that much on them personally.

      The reason I ask is because my clutch is not engaging fully.

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        #4
        Seriously, no one?

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          #5
          don't get your panties in a bunch :-D

          we're here


          some are busy due to the "holiday" of All hallo's Eve [-o<
          Keith
          -------------------------------------------
          1980 GS1000S, blue and white
          2015Triumph Trophy SE

          Ever notice you never see a motorcycle parked in front of a psychiatrist office?

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            #6
            At the handlebar tun the adjusters all the way in. Assess paly, (I assume you have done this and have no play). Go down to the adjustment at the clutch arm (for lack a better word) and extend that out as far as possible. At that point you should have slack in you cable. Pull the arm in unitl you have the desired slack.

            If this does not work your arm may be on the wrong notch.

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              #7
              When I replaced the fibre plates in my clutch I could not get the cable onto the engine side unless the lever side was detached. Then I had to finess (great j_sus screwdriver vice grips etc) it onto the adjuster at the perch.

              S.

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                #8
                Mike's problem is that he can't see how to adjust the cable on the clutch end at all. He can't seem to get any movement one way or another and doesn't see a phillips adjuster screw at the end. Anybody have any advice on that particular issue?

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
                  Mike's problem is that he can't see how to adjust the cable on the clutch end at all. He can't seem to get any movement one way or another and doesn't see a phillips adjuster screw at the end. Anybody have any advice on that particular issue?
                  Well, I've found the adjustment at the clutch lever and at the clutch end, and what I'm thinking is that it's just so damned tight that I'm not getting any actually slack, so I'm lubing the hell out of it and seeing if that helps.

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                    #10
                    Are you loosening the locknut down there? You can crank on it all day but without loosening that locknut it'll just snap back ('cause you're just twisting on the cable).

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
                      Are you loosening the locknut down there? You can crank on it all day but without loosening that locknut it'll just snap back ('cause you're just twisting on the cable).
                      Yeah, sure am.

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                        #12
                        Well I guess I'm still stumped. Unless it's on the wrong tooth on the splined shaft, like sombody else suggested. Is the angle made when the cable meets the lever down there greater than 90 degrees? If so it may be turned out too far and should be removed from the shaft and seated on the splines such that the angle is 90 degrees or less.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
                          Well I guess I'm still stumped. Unless it's on the wrong tooth on the splined shaft, like sombody else suggested. Is the angle made when the cable meets the lever down there greater than 90 degrees? If so it may be turned out too far and should be removed from the shaft and seated on the splines such that the angle is 90 degrees or less.
                          I've moved it on the shaft, so that now when I pull the clutch lever in, the arm is parallel with the case gasket or the serial numbers. However, since I've done that, the clutch will slip when I really lay on her and she gets up past about 6Krpms.

                          I'm going to seat her back one tooth counter clockwise and re-adjust.

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                            #14
                            If the pivot gear lever on the clutch is on right and you have taken all the slack off the cable and it's still tight, buy a Suzuki OEM clutch cable.
                            Are all you clutch fibers and steel plates in right?
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                              #15
                              As far as I know. I've never touched the clutch.

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