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16V TSCC 750 Clutch Cable Adjustment

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    #16
    Even with a worn out cable you should still be able to observe some movement of the arm and/or slackening/tightening of the cable while adjusting. You might not be able to actually get it in spec, but you'd see that your adjusting was having some effect...

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      #17
      Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
      Even with a worn out cable you should still be able to observe some movement of the arm and/or slackening/tightening of the cable while adjusting. You might not be able to actually get it in spec, but you'd see that your adjusting was having some effect...
      Yes, it's having an effect, it's just that I can't get it to get any slack as it's so tight. When I move the arm a tooth over so I can get slack in the cable, the clutch slips. We'll see how lubing it stretches it a bit.

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        #18
        Again, make sure the angle made when the cable hits the arm is 90 degrees or slightly more. If you've got the arm turned out too far on the shaft and it's less than 90 degrees you may not be able to get enough slack and the handlebar lever will be harder to pull.

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          #19
          Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
          Again, make sure the angle made when the cable hits the arm is 90 degrees or slightly more. If you've got the arm turned out too far on the shaft and it's less than 90 degrees you may not be able to get enough slack and the handlebar lever will be harder to pull.
          The angle made where the cable hits the arm is 90 degrees almost exactly when I pull in the handlebar lever. However, in doing so, there is no slack in the cable whatsoever.

          If I move the arm over one tooth, so that I can get some slack, the clutch slips in higher rpms.

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            #20
            That's odd. You'd think it'd slip when you *didn't* have slack. With slack, the clutch should be fully engaged (fully squished together, no room to slip). Without slack, it's likely it's somewhat actuated (not full pressure on the plates, more likely to start slipping). If your clutch is slipping when there's slack in the cable it may be time for a new clutch.

            Think about it, when you actuate the clutch with the handlebar lever, you tighten/pull on the cable and cause the clutch to slip and then fully disengage. When the lever is not being pressed is when the cable should be at its loosest and the clutch should be gripping its hardest.

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              #21
              I agree - logically, if you disconnect the clutch cable then the clutch is at full grab, and if it is still slipping, then the problem is inside the clutch - springs or plates.

              I would loosen the clutch cable off totally at the lever, and at the clutch end, and see what you get.

              With the engine running, roll the bike downhill and go from neutral to first, then stop the bike in first with the brakes. The clutch should grab, and probably stall the engine. You may fall off - ask me how I know

              If it does, the clutch is good and you have a cable adjustment problem.

              If it doesn't, then I would suspect the clutch pack itself.

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                #22
                Okay, I'll try that when I finish with the valves. Thanks.

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                  #23
                  Coming in late to the game here, (and I am usually a retard)but are we to assume the cable is routed correctly, and is not bound or pinched anywhere to frame by the weight of the fuel tank or routed in a way where there is too much tension on the cable when it is connected at both ends??

                  FWIW, Mike, I had a similar problem when I installed a new clutch pack. I arranged the pack and counted discs three times before installation, and when I come to a stop in gear, and turn off the bike, you can tell the clutch is grabbing ever so slightly....
                  Mike

                  1982 GS1100EZ

                  Text messages with my youngest brother Daniel right after he was paralyzed:

                  Me: Hey Dan-O. Just wanted to say howdy & love ya!

                  Dan-O: Howdy and Love you too. Doing good, feeling good.

                  Me: Give 'em hell, Little Bro!

                  Dan-O: Roger that! :)

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                    #24
                    Sounds like you need either new clutch springs or new clutch fibers. If the fibers are in spec and you are still slipping take out the clutch steels and clean them with steel wool.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Pete Logan View Post
                      I agree - logically, if you disconnect the clutch cable then the clutch is at full grab, and if it is still slipping, then the problem is inside the clutch - springs or plates.

                      I would loosen the clutch cable off totally at the lever, and at the clutch end, and see what you get.

                      With the engine running, roll the bike downhill and go from neutral to first, then stop the bike in first with the brakes. The clutch should grab, and probably stall the engine. You may fall off - ask me how I know

                      If it does, the clutch is good and you have a cable adjustment problem.

                      If it doesn't, then I would suspect the clutch pack itself.
                      Okay, the clutch checks out just fine, btw! Didn't even fall off!

                      Looks like it just needed a good lubing. We're back!

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