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**t3rmin** · 11-02-2006, 12:48 PM

Ok, got the first positive response on my fasteners inquiry:

Thank you for contacting us for this
We can make them for $ 5.25 each and I would be offering
a slotted head screw. Lead time 4 - 5 weeks.
Dale Stark
Eastwood Mfg
Houston

$5.25 each, so that's $21 for all four carbs, not including the springs. A bit steep, but perhaps still worth it? I dunno... Loctite is sounding better and better. ;-)

**bwringer** · 11-02-2006, 01:40 PM

There are only three sync screws, not four...

I'd happily pay $20 - $25 to rid myself of this PITA. I'm sure many others would, too.

**jonr** · 11-02-2006, 01:42 PM

Why not just solder the existing nut onto the end of the aformentined threaded rod. There's not enough heat between the carbs to liquify the solder. If you put washers on both ends of the spring, you would get a smooth turn. Make the threaded rod as long as you want and you could put a longer spring in there to get more tension.

Low tech, but doable. The nut serves as a stop for the spring and you could easily turn with a socket at a slight angle.

J

**t3rmin** · 11-02-2006, 01:45 PM

Originally posted by bwringer View Post

There are only three sync screws, not four...

Oh yeah. Duh. #-oSo that's only $15.75 per bike plus cost of springs, which I expect will not be nearly so expensive. That does bring it down to a reasonable range.

Of course I think we'd have to commit to buying 100pcs to get that price, which is $525. I don't really have that laying around at the moment, so maybe somebody else would like to make the buy and sell kits? I'd definitely buy one.

**t3rmin** · 11-02-2006, 01:48 PM

Originally posted by jonr View Post

Why not just solder the existing nut onto the end of the aformentined threaded rod. There's not enough heat between the carbs to liquify the solder. If you put washers on both ends of the spring, you would get a smooth turn. Make the threaded rod as long as you want and you could put a longer spring in there to get more tension.

Low tech, but doable. The nut serves as a stop for the spring and you could easily turn with a socket at a slight angle.

J

Yes, it would work. I just hate "hacks" like that, but I will do them when I get desperate! ;-)

I'd probably also dremel a slot in the top so I could use a screwdriver. A socket is hard to fit down there, especially on the middle one (without removing the choke bracket). And I'd use epoxy instead of solder, 'cause I'm an epoxy freak, but either would work.

*EDIT* $47.79 for 1 meter of M5x0.50P threaded rod and 50 hex nuts to match at metricspecialties.com.

**bwringer** · 11-03-2006, 06:30 PM

Originally posted by t3rmin View Post

Yes, it would work. I just hate "hacks" like that, but I will do them when I get desperate! ;-)

I'd probably also dremel a slot in the top so I could use a screwdriver. A socket is hard to fit down there, especially on the middle one (without removing the choke bracket). And I'd use epoxy instead of solder, 'cause I'm an epoxy freak, but either would work.

*EDIT* $47.79 for 1 meter of M5x0.50P threaded rod and 50 hex nuts to match at metricspecialties.com.

The 1 meter of threaded rod and nuts is definitely workable... any leads on the springs?

Solder or brazing would be a lot more reliable than epoxy. (Hint: Jon knows a lot more than any of us about making small metal things stick together.) The solder would penetrate the threads to some degree and form a very strong bond. You could even polish them up a bit to look really nice.

**t3rmin** · 11-03-2006, 06:36 PM

Well I hadn't really figured on finding the springs until I had the screws with which to test for fitment...

**jonr** · 11-03-2006, 06:45 PM

Originally posted by bwringer View Post

The 1 meter of threaded rod and nuts is definitely workable... any leads on the springs?

Solder or brazing would be a lot more reliable than epoxy. (Hint: Jon knows a lot more than any of us about making small metal things stick together.) The solder would penetrate the threads to some degree and form a very strong bond. You could even polish them up a bit to look really nice.

Thanks for the kudos Brian. I'm not sure I want to polish something that I would never see though! Only Bob is that kind of purist (in a good way).

THe McMaster Carr price is $35 for the meter of threaded rod. Use the existing nut and all you have to worry about is the springs. What kind of spring rate are we talking about here? 5, 10, 15 lbs per inch? I don't know what it would take to keep a screw from backing out.

I've got a catalog with some beryllium copper springs in it and they run anywhere from $1.25 to $10.00 each. All depends on spring rate, OD and length.

J

**t3rmin** · 11-03-2006, 07:15 PM

Originally posted by jonr View Post

THe McMaster Carr price is $35 for the meter of threaded rod. Use the existing nut and all you have to worry about is the springs. What kind of spring rate are we talking about here? 5, 10, 15 lbs per inch? I don't know what it would take to keep a screw from backing out.

Is that 0.50mm pitch threaded rod? *EDIT* N/M, I see they do have 0.50 on their website.

I'd kinda rather keep the existing nuts in case I want to go back...

**t3rmin** · 11-03-2006, 07:23 PM

And McMaster-Carr has M5-0.50 nuts for $13.21 for a 50 pack.

Metricspecialties.com is slightly cheaper then...

**t3rmin** · 11-07-2006, 03:46 PM

Got another reply from a fastener maker. $6.79 each to get them custom made. So I guess the first response was the best. I'm still evaluating the loctite by itself, though...