New member with a few questions for ya.

[Anonymous]

Sadly, I don't have a stock headlight. There is no light on the bike right now, also I need to get turn signals, as the stock ones are broken.

Bob

[Anonymous]

Parts

Say Bob you may try this place. I found it when I was looking for a new tail light. This guy has darn near everything. I hope this helps. http://www.oldkawman.com/gsparts.html

[earlfor]

I've bought a lot of stuff from these people and they are great to deal with.
They stock turn signals, headlights, halogen bulbs, vesrah pads and LOTS of goodies for the GS's. :-)

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm

Earl

Sadly, I don't have a stock headlight. There is no light on the bike right now, also I need to get turn signals, as the stock ones are broken.

Bob

[Anonymous]

no break in continuity

Just a suggestion....had the same problem with my bike, and I determined that the wires running from the points to the coils were shorted. One half shorted in the main loom that runs under the tank, the other shorted down where they make the turn to go to points, on the underside of the engine. Left the main loom half along and just made a new "two wire harness", and then made a new section to snake down behind and underneath the engine to the points. Something to check. Good luck, and have fun,

Ryan
-----
mueller@xta.com

[Anonymous]

OK guys here is today's update, not much good news.

I did a static timing using Earl's post, which was MUCH more clear and easy than the method in the Clymer. However, the bike still didn't want to start. I think new points are in order, but the ones in there don't look that bad.

I adjusted carbs per Earl's advice, still won't start.

I went to the parts place to get the Uni filter I ordered last Thursday. It was the wrong one. I bought some bulk filter foam and made a filter, gluing it together with silicone. I then reassembled airbox.....bike still won't start. Even with ether.

I am going to go get new plugs and go from there. During today's efforts at starting I pulled the plugs and it seems that they were getting pretty wet with gas. Well, three of the four were, #2 was not as wet, sometimes not wet at all when #1 seemed soaked with gas.

I drained the forks and filled with ND30. This made a HUGE difference in the way the fork moves. It used to feel as if there was no damping at all, depressing 4-5 inches just by leaning on it, now it is much more firm.

The brake light switch was not working at the front lever, I disassembled cleaned and reassembled. Now the brake comes on, but won't go off. I can't seem to adjust the switch to go on early enough in the squeeze and still go off when the lever is released. I put a flat washer between the lever and master cylinder and it is ok now, but not great.

It is coming together, but I am a bit disappointed that it started on Friday after a lot or trying and a lot of ether, and then started very easily on Saturday, but won't start now. Sometimes it seems like it is trying, but it just won't quite catch. Thanks for the help, You have all been very helpful. I am going to try and trace the ignition loom and make sure there are no shorts or very dirty connections.

Bob

[earlfor]

BOB! I apologize. I told you to set the gap on the F1 mark at .015 and not thinking about it, I neglected a zero. The guage is .0015 that is set it to 1 1/2 thousandths NOT the 15 thousandths this IDIOT! said. :-)
If you set the gap to 15 thou.........there is your problem right there!
JEEZ

BUT........if you are set to .0015 and it still doesnt fire............ then continue reading. sorry bout that


It appears you arent getting enough voltage to fire the plugs, or something is absorbing the current before it gets to the plugs. By setting the point gaps to .0015 (1 1/2 thousandths) on the F1 mark and the same for the F2 mark, it isnt possible to mis time the bike badly enough that it would not start and run. Having wet plugs indicates an ignition problem.
If you didnt have vacum, you couldnt get wet plugs and being wet dismisses a fuel problem. Since the starter apparently is working (I assume) we can start tracing the ignition circuit from that point. Inside the headlight shell (I know you dont have one yet) there is a three wire connector (3 in/3out) The wires will be orange, orange with white stripe and green with yellow stripe. This connector bridges your starter button and engine kill switch. With the ignition switch turned on, and the kill switch on, you should have 12+ volts (battery voltage) on the orange with white stripe wire. This orange and white wire is the 12v+ power feed to both of your coils and is connected to the positive terminal on the coils. The wire will branch into a "Y" connector to supply leads to the coils and will remain coded orange with white stripe. Check voltage at the + connection to both coils. The + terminal on the coils is 12v positive input. The negative terminal on the coils is 12v POSITIVE OUTPUT. The left coil negative terminal will be a white wire and runs to the left breaker pointset. This coil and pointset fires cylinders 1 and 4. The right coil negative terminal will be a black wire and it runs to the right pointset firing cylinders 2 and 3. Check voltages at each connector through the wire run for the ignition circuits. My bike shows a 1/2 volt drop between the voltage measured at the battery terminals and the ending voltage in the ignition circuit. If input voltages are OK, and the points are breaking with a spark. (remove points cover and touch starter button. You should be able to see and hear the points breaking) I would pull a spark plug, snap the plug wire on it and ground the threads of the plug against an engine fin and turn ignition switch on, hit starter button and visually check the plug gap for firing/arcing. If the plugs do not fire, my inclination would be to check plug gaps (should be .028) and then plug caps. Its possible for all four plug caps to have "aged" and slowly developed increased resistances.

I interpret the fact of the four spark plugs showing different degrees of wetness as indicative of uneven vacum, but the engine should still at least fire and try to run.

Earl

[Anonymous]

Well, I went and got a set of new plugs today. Gapped and installed them. Was ready with the starting fluid, but figured I would give it a quick try without. Turned the key, pushed the start button and it started almost before the button bottomed out. It didn't seem like it even turned, just was all of a sudden running. A buddy who was here and is an experinced motorcyclist (and designated probe unit) took it for a spin. Power was smooth, no flat spots, there was some miss around and above 5500 rpm, but all in all it is going well. The ND30 in the fork made a giant difference while riding in addition to in the garage . I then started bobbing the rear fender and had to fabricate some steel parts to keep the tail light/license plate holder steady. Gonna paint it tomorrow and reinstall the fender. Now if I could just find some flatter bars, the ones that came on it have about an 8" rise. Any suggestions? Thanks again for your input and enthusiasm guys.


Bob

[moto_dan]

Now if I could just find some flatter bars, the ones that came on it have about an 8" rise. Any suggestions? Thanks again for your input and enthusiasm guys.

Bob

Sounds like your making good progress, Congrats. I personally like what is normally referred to as a Superbike bend bar. Not sure of model, but they have about a 2" rise and a slight bend back to the rider. Cost about $20 when I purchased some 7-8 yrs. ago.

[earlfor]

Bob, I got my handlebars from Dennis Kirk. I'm using the universal superbike bar and find it very comfortable. On the page below, this bar is listed as is the Stock style E type Suzuki bar and a low rise touring bar.

http://www.denniskirk.com/powervendor/lists/partlist.asp?serverid=nlStreet&type=11&subtype=handlebars&search=search&SD2=Handlebar

Earl

[moto_dan]

Here's some info from a previous discussion on handle bars.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=4241&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=superbike%20bars

[earlfor]

Hot Dawg! :-) The upper rpm miss may be the carbs needing to be balanced.

Earl


[quote="BobMachus"]
Well, I went and got a set of new plugs today. Gapped and installed them. Was ready with the starting fluid, but figured I would give it a quick try without. Turned the key, pushed the start button and it started almost before the button bottomed out

[Anonymous]

Once I get a set of nice new points installed and a set of muflers installed, I am going to do a bit of hoem carb tuning and then take it to a shop (or rather have the probe unit take it to a shop) to pay for someone to do the carb sync. The probe unit suggested today that when I am learning to ride I use his '82 Yamaha Vision 550. I am sure that he has my best interest in mind, but I am sure he won't mind some time on the GS either. Time to go try on helmets and shop for a jacket and gloves.

Bob

[moto_dan]

Time to go try on helmets and shop for a jacket and gloves.

Bob

For gloves and jackets check out http://www.newenough.com I've been real pleased with the prices and service. Ebay is also a great source for riding gear.

[Anonymous]

Sadly, I don't have a stock headlight. There is no light on the bike right now, also I need to get turn signals, as the stock ones are broken.

Bob

Do you or does any one know if the stock signals from a gs1100e will fit your 750???

[earlfor]

Dom, on the 79 750, 81 750 and 80 1100 I have, the turn signals are all the same mount type, so they are interchangable.

Earl

[quote="slopoke
Do you or does any one know if the stock signals from a gs1100e will fit your 750???[/quote]