Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Bleedin Bloody brakes

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    Bleedin Bloody brakes

    I am currently doing-up a 1982 GS550MZ Katana. I am on the brakes at the moment. I stripped down and cleaned up the rear brakes, bled them etc. and they work ok, stop the wheel, but they don't release quite as much as I'd like, the rear wheel is just slightly slower to turn when you give it a spin by hand, is there any way to make sure the pads retract that fraction of a millimeter more to completely clear the disc all the way ?- the disc is flat, theres no real run out on it at all.

    Also - front brakes - again is there a trick to make sure the pads pull back of the disc better than they are doing presently - again when you spin wheel by hand theres a gently whistle of disc on pad, but wheel spins not bad. I stripped bioth sets front calipers - new seals, dust boots, brake fluid, pads, etc.

    Any suggestions gratefully received.

    PS Thanks for the help with tht throttle cabe - thats now fixed up good!
    Tags: None
    #2
    One thing I do is polish the pins the brake pads slide on. Don't know if it makes a difference but I do it when I change the fluid every winter and the brakes work great.

    Gerry

    Comment

      #3
      Re: Bleedin Bloody brakes

      A slight amount of drag from the pucks after the brakes have been applied and released is normal. If you can spin the tire easily with your palm, everything is fine.

      Earl
      All the robots copy robots.

      Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

      You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices.

      Comment

        #4
        Re: Bleedin Bloody brakes

        Originally posted by earlfor
        A slight amount of drag from the pucks after the brakes have been applied and released is normal. If you can spin the tire easily with your palm, everything is fine.

        Earl
        agreed, that is the one draw back of disc brakes, they drag a bit when released.

        Comment

          #5
          The mech I chewwed the ear off before I bought my bike gave me all kinds of helpful tips. One was to clean the slides and spray them with silicone lube. It seems to work well, reduces the corrosion. The silicone doesn't pick up dust like brake lube.

          Comment

            #6
            ...and the silicone isn't affected by the heat like other lubricants out there.

            Comment

              #7
              Why does everyone forget the return valve?

              I think you should check the master cylinder. When the fluid is pumped out into the system it has to be able to return. If not your brakes will not release right away or at all. A small hole is in the bottom of your master cylinder. Watch out when you clean it. if the brake lines have preasure build up in them it will spitt a stream at you when you clear it.

              Comment

              Previous template Next
              Working...
              X